Lipstick & Pearls

Beware of Lead in your Lipstick!

2012-02-20T20:27:00.000Z

Four hundred lipsticks on sale in America, Europe and other countries have been found to contain trace levels of lead by the Food and Drugs Administration (FDA). Four of the top 10 most contaminated lipsticks were by the brands L'oreal and Maybelline, as were two lipsticks by NARS and two by Cover Girl.

Picture from: Aurora Images.

As far back as 1990, laboratories have been raising concerns about lead in commercial lipsticks, however these concerns have been unanswered by the big brands involved. More recent tests in 2007 by the FDA reveal that two thirds of the lipsticks tested contained above the limits of lead that the FDA permits. The follow-up tests reveal that four hundred lipsticks still contain this toxic chemical.

Interestingly, the most contaminated product was Maybellines' "pink petal" and the least contaminated (also the cheapest) was Wet & Wild Mega Mixer lip balm.

What makes Lead poisonous?

Lead has been used for many years. The Ancient Romans used it to build their water pipes and this is one of the reasons put forward for the fall of their Empire!

Lead is toxic because it interferes with natural biochemical reactions inside the body. It replaces normal metals such as iron and zinc, adhering to proteins that normally induce chemical reactions such as transporting oxygen in the blood and regulating blood pressure. Because lead binds to these important proteins instead of the natural metals, the normal chemical reactions cannot take place. Therefore, symptoms such as anaemia (lack of oxygen in the blood making you pale and tired) and infertility can ensue. It it also a neurotoxin and can cause problems with language and learning. Pregnant women are particularly vulnerable, because lead can cross the placenta and interfere with the foetal brain.

The FDA say that the traces of lead in the lipsticks are unlikely to harm us, unless we consumed a plate of the stuff for lunch. L'oreal defended the findings by claiming that

"...the lead comes from minerals used in the lipsticks to create pigment. It is naturally occurring because the minerals are taken from the ground and can be found anywhere in the environment."

However, I dispute this because in that case why are so many other brands able to create lipsticks with much lower levels of lead in them. Even though the levels are so small, I would argue that something is going wrong during the quality-control process that exists when the lipsticks are being manufactured. Given that they are a product that we apply to our lips on a regular basis, I would suggest that this quality control fault is rectified. In my view, there is no excuse for these levels of toxic metals in our cosmetics and we, as consumers, deserve a product that is 100% safe to use.

On a happier note .......

Have you entered my Charity Raffle yet? You could win over £400 in designer makeup and 100% proceeds go to charity!!!!

Click here to find out more!!

New Banner

2012-02-10T17:02:00.000Z

A big thank you to Ashlynn (@thelittlebeauty) for designing this new banner for me. I think it's fantastic and wanted to say a huge thank you to her for going to such efforts for me.

Please don't forget to check out my raffle, 100% of the proceeds go to helping rape victims and victims of sex trafficking. Over £400 of beauty prizes have been donated and you could be a winner! Check out how to enter here:

http://lipstick-and-pearls.blogspot.com/2012/02/win-over-400-worth-of-beauty-prizes.html

WIN OVER £400 WORTH OF BEAUTY PRIZES!!!

2012-02-01T18:52:00.000Z

CHARITY RAFFLE!!!

Over £400 worth of beauty prizes to be won!

In September 2012 I will be embarking on a 13 day treak through the Himalayas to raise money for charity.

The Helen Bamber Foundation is an amazing charity who helps survivors of human rights violations (such as rape, sex trafficking and torture) to rebuild their lives. For more information about The Helen Bamber Foundation, please visit their website {HERE}.

The aim of my trek is to raise £2,000 for The Helen Bamber Foundation and in order to achieve this, I need your help!! Therefore, I am hosting an online raffle, with some amazing prizes that have been kindly donated to me.

The Prizes!!

Daniel Sandler cosmetics.

Over £120 of designer make up has been donated by Daniel Sandler. This wonderful set consists of:

Watercolour blush.
Long lasting waterproof eyeliner - Purple.
Long lasting waterproof eyeliner - Green.
Long lasting waterproof eyeliner - Blue.
Lip liner & Lacquer.
Luxury Lipstick.
Eye Delight.
Matte shadow.
3 x Eyeliner /Shadows.
Powder brush.
Liner/concealer brush.

Sigma Travel Kit.

Sigma have donated three travel brush kits to this wonderful cause and you could win one! The prize can be in either black or pink - your choice!

A style session with Stephanie from Wardrobe Angel.

This prize is worth £250 and has been donated by Stephanie. Stephanie will help you go through your wardrobe and select the clothes that suit you best, co-ordinating outfits and organising them so that you can see which items go best together. The best part is that you will not have to go out and buy a new set of clothes!! She will make the clothes you already own work for you.

This prize is based around the Manchester area.

For more details: http://www.wardrobeangel.co.uk/

John Freida Hair Care Sets.

John Freida has very kindly donated two hair care sets, each woth over £21!

Set 1:
Frizz-Ease daily miracle treatement.
Frizz-Ease secret agent flawless finishing cream.
Frizz-Ease straight ahead shampoo.
Frizz-Ease smooth start conditioner.

Set 2:
Sheer Blonde shape & shine balm.
Sheer Blonde instant silkener.
Sheer Blonde conditioner.
Sheer Blonde shampoo.

5 free Graze boxes.

Graze provided delicious boxes of snacks and treats that are delivered straight to your door and they have donated a voucher for 5 free nibble-boxes! Each box is worth £3.50 each and you can choose the foods you like and dislike to tailor the box to meet your tastes. They're not strictly beauty related, but they are healthy so they will certainly aid inner-beauty!

How to enter!!

I have decided to run this raffle through my Just Giving page (http://www.justgiving.com/Donna-Gilliard). This means that money goes directly to The Helen Bamber Foundation!

To enter, simply go to my Just Giving page {HERE} and donate £5 (~US$ 7.6) by clicking on the "donate now" button. This will buy you 5 entries and you can enter as often as you like!

You will be taken to a page where you can donate some money, you can enter any amount that you wish to donate. Each entry costs £5 (approx. $7.6), but you can enter as many times as you wish!

As this is a raffle, gift aid cannot be claimed.

You will have to fill in your email address and create an account if you haven't already got one. You will then be taken through to the payments section and will need to provide a billing address (this is confidential).

Following this, you will need to confirm your donation.

Now, this is the important part!!

In the message box, make sure you provide some way of contacting you (incase you win)! This could be an email, twitter link or a blog address.

The final message will look something like this (obviously I will not count myself in the entries):

By donating through Just giving, 100% of your donation goes directly to the charity and there is no middle man, so you know the money is going straight to where it is needed. However, if you would like to donate using another format please email me: voebeauty@gmail.com

Closing date for entries is 1st June 2012.

Blogging Ethics.

2012-01-29T10:48:00.000Z

A lot of bloggers these days strive to get to the point where they can earn money from their blogs. I have no problem with that. After all, why not? Published writers get paid to write and with the Internet becoming more and more a part of everyday life, the way work is published is changing. I do not see a difference between blogging and writing for magazines or newspapers, other than it's much easier to get your work out there if you are using a blog.

What I do have a problem with, however, is a lack of blogging ethics.

If you are going to advertise a product or if you are sponsored then make that clear from your blog post. If you don't, your readers will only loose faith in you and you'll find that once the trust is gone then they will stop coming back to read your stuff.

In my opinion, it's much better to swallow your pride and admit that you have been paid or sponsored to write a blog post that to try and hide it. After all, if you want to be a successful beauty blogger, you need your readers to trust you.

What made me decide to write a post about this? I was recently approached by an agency wanting me to write about one of their products. I told them that I would be happy to do so, but I would be making it clear that the post is sponsored and I will also give my honest opinion about the product. If I think it's rubbish, I will say so, sponsored or not.

They replied to be quite swiftly and said that they would not be happy for me to mention that the post is sponsored. I was curious about this and asked them why not? To which they said that the board would not be happy for people to know that they sponsored me to blog about their product, especially as I have been known to be incredibly harsh on other companies' products in the past. They even offered me some free products if I promised not to write a disclaimer on my post! I won't lie and say that I wasn't tempted for a split second. But, I subsequently turned down their offer. Needless to say, I will not be writing about their products.

One of the reasons that I started this blog was because I was growing disheartened with the dishonesty on the beauty blogging community. I wanted to give an honest and educated opinion about cosmetics and I promised myself that I would never ever "turn to the dark side of beauty blogging".

Thus, I make this pledge to you all...

I will always give my honest opinion about a product, whether it is sponsored or not and, I will always make it clear to you if a blog post is sponsored.

I will never compromise my journalistic dignity for commercial deals.

The trust of my readers is something that can never to retrieved back if it is ever lost.

If I annoy a few cosmetics companies with this pledge then so be it. I am sure they'll get over it.

________________________________________________________________________________

PS. I am currently testing some products at the moment that have been sent to me. I want to make it clear that the products described above were not accepted by me and I will not be writing about them, so any up and coming sponsored posts in the future are completely unrelated to this post.

YouTube beauty gurus, please read!

2012-01-29T10:46:00.000Z

Using "Make Up Forever HD foundation/powder" in Picture Perfect tutorials is not a good idea.

This is why.

Eva Longoria.

Nicole Kidman

Taraji Henson.

Up & Coming Raffle.

2012-01-06T09:21:00.000Z

I am hoping to launch my charity raffle very soon! Lot's of fab prizes including over £100 worth of cosmetics, some lovely John Freida gift sets, Graze gift vouchers and Sigma brushes!!!

Stay tuned!

Quick Sunscreen Tip.

2012-01-04T17:09:00.000Z

Picture reference: Islamic Sun Rays

Sunscreens can sometimes be quite sticky and heavy on the skin. I have found that mixing a small amount in with my moisturiser/primer thins it out and allows it to glide onto the skin easily. It also means that I am not left with a sticky residue. My particular sunscreen has a very high UVA and UVB rating so I can afford to use less.

Try it and let me know how you get on.

Get the most from your moisturiser.

2011-11-11T11:38:00.000Z

A lot of people do not realise that most moisturisers do not actually moisturise! Instead, they merely lock in moisture by forming a protective, water proof barrier over the top of the skin.

For this reason, you do not need to spend lots of money on a moisturiser. Cheap moisturising creams will do exactly the same job as more expensive ones. Have you considered using petroluum jelly on the parts of your face that need the most moisture, such as the lips? Some people don't like the idea behind petrolium jelly, but contray to some of the myths out there, it is very refined and pure. In fact, it is mostly just fats.

To get the most from you moisturiser, apply it over damp skin once your have got out of the shower or finished washing your face. It will lock in the water and allow the skin to absorb it as much as possible. This is a particularly good tip for the winter, when the elements tend to dry out the skin.

When applying your moisturiser, take the time to gently rub it into your skin. Don't just brush it on in a few swipes. If you massage it into the skin, the warmth from your fingers will warm the product and make it more pliable. It is then much more likely to get into all of those nooks and crannies and you'll find that it goes further.

Two good priced moisturisers that I recommend are The Body Shop aloe vera day cream and a good quality traditional cold cream, such as Boots traditional skin care cold cream.

Traditional Cold Cream.

Source: rattlingon.typepad.com

Cold creams have been a basic staple in womens' makeup bags for decades. They are called cold creams because they are made using a "cold process" involving natural chemical reactions to make the cream itself (a bit like how I make my own creams: recipe here).

The good thing about these wonderful age old products is that they are made using a fairly simple recipe and the fact that they have been around for so long shows that they have stood the tests of time! They are also a bargain price. The one I use, Boots traditional skin care cold cream, is only £2.42 for 200 ml of product!!

I adore this cream. It is a very heavy cream, so I only tend to use it on the dry patches of my skin (I use the aloe vera cream on the rest). But, I also use it as a fabulous makeup remover! I simply rub the cream onto my face and then use cotton wool to remove it. This little makeup removal tip has been going for years and years. Two women in my life have recommended this makeup removal tip to me and both are in their 60's and have amazing skin!!!

Source: Boots.com

Aloe Vera Day Cream.

This little pot of cream is £9.00 for 50ml, so it is slightly more pricey than the cold cream. However, I have used it for years and still find it wonderful. It is made my the body shop so is not tested on animals and uses natural ingredients. It is a much lighter formula than the cold cream so I use it on the areas of my face that are not dry and therefore do not need intensive moisturisation. I also like to use this cream around my delicate eye area. Because it is so light, a little goes along way and one pot should last you a long time.

Source: The Body Shop

Does diet affect acne?

2011-11-04T18:07:00.000Z

Image source: arch1design.com

I recently read an interesting article claiming to debunk the "myth" that junk food causes acne and I was very intrigued1. Unfortunately, the author of the article in question did not list her references but by pure chance, I found the reference she had used. It was the first article to come up when I typed "acne, junk food" into google scholar2. The article, whilst very interesting, was from a magazine and was written in 1990 - a long time a go. So, I decided to investigate more recent evidence surrounding this topic.

It is true that this topic is very debatable and a lot of the research provides mixed advice. It is not easy to prove a link between diet and acne because there are so many factors that come into play. However, with a little thought we can get some idea as to how likely it is that your diet is causing bad skin.

Acne is typically caused by a build up of sebum on the skin that gets into pores and this allows bacteria to build up. The body then tries to fight the bacteria by initiating an immune response3 - swelling, heat, redness and pus are the signs of this.

Fat intake Vs. Fibre intake:

Diets high in fat tend to lead to an increased chance of developing acne. This is because high fat levels within the body increase the amount of hormones circulating, which can lead to teenage acne. However, it was found that fibre in the diet reduced these hormones3. So, eating apples and other fibre rich fruit & veg is a good idea if you want a clear complexion!

Image source: healthy heart

Types of Fat:

It is true that the Western diet is often high in omega-6 fatty acids, but very low in omega-3 fatty acids. There is significant evidence that a diet high in omega-3 fatty acids reduces the inflammatory response by the immune system (it is this response that gives away those tell-tale signs of acne)4. So, a diet rich in these specific fatty acids should help reduce pimples and spots. This is also hugely significant because reducing the levels of inflammatory response is known to help reduce the chances of heart disease (the biggest killer in the Western world). So, it is a very, very good thing to eat lots of omega-3 anyway!

Omega-3 fatty acids are found in oily fish such as salmon, mackerel and sardines and are VERY GOOD FOR YOU!

Image source: The daily telegraph.

Dairy Products:

Research by scientists has found that there is a link between the risk of getting acne and the amount of dairy products consumed. It has been shown that more milk that girls and boys consume as teenagers, leads to more chance of them acquiring acne as they get older5. Further more, skimmed milk seemed to provide the biggest risk, showing that the high fat content of milk was not responsible3.

It is thought that the hormones in milk are responsible for this link with acne. Unfortunately, despite high levels of purification and pasteurisation of milk, hormones still get through into the final product. Although these are not a huge problem to human health, they do have the potential to increase the chances of developing acne, al be it only slightly3.

Image source unkown.

Chocolate:

This is a difficult one! It makes sense that if dairy products have an effect on acne, then chocolate must too. However, there is no conclusive evidence to show this. It seems that the cocoa and sugar in chocolate does not affect acne. Therefore, it makes sense that chocolate with lower levels of milk in it would be better for you. However, you will be happy to know that the evidence shows that chocolate does not make a big difference to your chances of developing acne as a whole3.

Source: acnecream.com

Conclusion:

Fibre (brown bread, wholemeal pasta, cereal and fruit) helps reduce acne by mopping up excess hormones in the body.

Fat does not make a huge difference (unless you ingest lots and lots of it) however omega-3 fatty acids (oily fish) reduce acne ...and are amazing for your health in general!!

Dairy products (particularly milk) could increase acne, not because of the fat content, but because of the hormones within it.

Chocolate has no proven effect on acne, but chocolate with a low dairy content is probably better.

References:
1] Emerson, Anja. (May 2011) www.helium.com/items/2153913-the-mostcommon-skin-care-myths-debunked [accessed online: October 2011].
2] Snider, S. (1990) Acne taming that age old adolescent affliction. http://www.questica.com/ [accessed online October 2011].
3] Spencer, E., Ferdowsian, H., Barnard, N. (2009) Diet and acne: a review of the evidence. International journal of dermatology. 48, 4.
4] Pappas, A. (2009) The relationship of diet and acne. Dermatological Endocriniology. 1 (5) 262-267.
5] Adebamowo, CA. et al. (2005) high school dietry intake and teenage acne. Journal of the american assoc. dermatology. 52: 207-211.

Thank you for reading!

If you haven't already had a look, please take a look at my page about an amazing trek I am embarking on in order to raise money for charity....... [Here]!!!

DIY Halloween Makeup: Fake Blood.

2011-10-28T11:16:00.000+01:00

Me, 4 years ago, dressed up for a Halloween party.

There has been quite a lot of controversy around lately concerning fancy dress makeup. With some reports of the costume makeup being toxic, it is important to double check that you buy yours from a reputable retailer. In the UK, tough guidelines mean that toxic makeup should not get onto the shelves so there shouldn't be anything to worry about so long as you buy from somewhere with a good reputation.

However, if the scare-stories have worried you (it is Halloween after all) then why not try out this cool recipe for your own DIY fake blood?

Yes, the recipe is from Blue Peter (a childrens TV program here in the UK), but I thought it was too good not to put here. Try it out and see for yourself!!

Homemade Fake Blood Recipe!

Ingredients:

Peanut Butter (smooth).
Golden syrup.
Red food colouring.
Corn flour.

Method:

Mix 2 spoonfuls of peanut butter with 1 spoonful of golden syrup until you reach a smooth consistancy.

Slowly add the red food colouring, 1 dop at a time and stir the mixture until it turns red.

If it becomes too runny, add a small amount of corn flour until it thickens.

Your fake blood is now ready to use!!

Source: Blue Peter

How to use your old PR samples to help others.

2011-10-27T19:59:00.002+01:00

I have seen a few beauty blogs advertising blog sales to sell off old PR samples that they do not need anymore. However, have you considered giving them away to charity instead?

Give and Makeup is a wonderful organisation whom works with charities such as Womens Aid and Refuge. Both are amazing charities who work with victims of domestic violence, providing them with support and guidance.

Every single item that you donate to Give & Makeup will be donated to one of the charities they support and will help make the lives of those unfortunate enough to be on the receiving end of domestic violence better.

Here is a list of some of the items that they need.

Everyday Essentials

shampoo

conditioner
bath/shower gel

deodorant
toothbrushes
toothpaste
body lotion
feminine hygiene products

shaving products
at-home hair dye colouring kits

Skincare
cleanser

toner

moisturiser

MakeUp
foundation
concealer
powder
blusher
eyeshadow
eyeliner
mascara

Tools

makeup brushes
makeup bags

hairdryers

curling tongs

straighteners

Clothing
bras
underwear (clean and useable!)
pyjamas
childrens clothing - anything
childrens pyjamas

Baby Products

all of them!

So, if you have any old PR products that fit the description on the list above or just want to help out by donating some of the makeup products that you do not need, then please take a look at their website [here] and help them to help women caught up in domestic violence. Thank you.

Origins UV Face Protector: Review.

2011-10-23T17:50:00.000+01:00

You may think it odd that I am reviewing a UV protector as we head into winter, but I have been looking for a good quality sun screen for my face for some time now. I wanted one that I could wear all year round and I knew I wanted one that was both light weight and also with a high SPF. Unfortunately, many sunscreens are quite "heavy" in texture or they have a low SPF.

I eventually came across this product by Origins: UV face protector with white tea (SPF 35). I purchased a 40ml tube for £19.00 from House of Fraiser. I was uneasy about spending this amount of money on it, but I decided to go for it. UV protection is very important for keeping the skin in good condition and I decided it was something worth spending a little more money for.

I have been using this product for almost four weeks now and I really like it. The consistency of the cream is thin enough to spread over the face and sinks in immediately. I only need to use a pea-size amount to do my entire face, so I know that this product will last for a long time (making the £19 price tag very credible). The cream is also slightly tinted so it would work well without the use of foundation over the top of it.

Something I discovered by accident whilst using this cream is that it makes a fabulous base for foundation!! I noticed that my foundation looked so much more flawless when used over the top of the cream. Not only that, but it also makes my foundation last much longer!

I have had no problems with break outs since using this product, although I will warn you that everyones skin is different so this may not be the case all of the time. I suggest that you get a free sample from Origins to try first. The sample in itself should last a long time as you only need a tiny amount.

There are some ingredients within this product that I was unsure about at first. However, the thing with sunscreen is that it is difficult to get an all natural sunscreen that is effective. I have heard that PEG-100 stearate is an ingredient worth avoiding, but when I looked into it in a lot more detail I found that it has been found to be safe by the FDA and European Union1. It is actually a natural fatty acid and is used in cosmetics to help water and oil to mix. Therefore, it is nothing to worry about.

Wheat germ is listed on the COS DNA cosmetics listing as a possible skin irritant2, but I have had no problems with it. In fact, did you know that wheat germ has been found to help prevent bowl cancer?3 [Unrelated fact: Research is still ongoing regarding that, but it's interesting nonetheless!]

All in all, I love this product and will be purchasing it again.... and you know it must be good to get a good review from me!

References:

1] Cosmeticsinfo.org. Stearac Acid. [Accessed online 2011].
2] Origins A Perfect World, UV face protector. cosdna.com. [Accessed online 2011].
3] Zalatnai et al. 2001. Wheat germ extract inhibits colon carcinogenisis in F-344 rats. Oxford Journals. 22 (10) 1649-1652.

Faux cosmetics.

2011-10-20T21:40:00.000+01:00

Whilst procrastinating and browsing through the Internet the other day, I came across an article about some trendy little gadgets that have been cleverly disguised as cosmetics. Intrigued, I looked into them a bit more and they're so cute & quirky that I couldn't resist sharing them with you. They are, after all, a fabulous way of combining science with beauty!!

Picture credit: Japan Trends.

These fabulous little electronic gadgets that look and feel like cosmetics are becoming increasingly popular in Japan and I am sure it won't be long until they spread to America and Europe too.

This pocket size electronic toothbrush has been designed to look just like a mascara and the idea behind it is that women can now take their toothbrush anywhere and not feel embarrassed by "advertising" their oral hygiene habits. To be honest, it's not my style. I don't like electric toothbrushes and I don't think I'd be particularly embarrassed by people spotting my toothbrush should I need to carry it around with me in my bag. But this little gadget is quirky and fun so if you have $87 (~ £58) to spare then why not?

Panasonic Doltz Pocket sonic toothbrush.
Picture credit: Japan Trend Shop.

The toothbrush is designed by Panasonic and is available from The Japan Trend Shop.

Electronic mouse disguised as a lipstick.
Picture credit: Ameya Eitaro.

These quirky little lipsticks aren't actually cosmetics!! They are a cute little portable mouse for your computer. You simply pop the receiver into the USB port of your computer and then the mouse is ready to use. The mouse can also be recharge via your USB port. I love the little Swarovski diamond design, it adds a touch of luxury and sophistication! This product is available from Ameya Eitaro or The Japan Trend Shop. It retails at $140 (~£88).

Picture credit: Ameya Eitaro.

Another product from Ameya Eitaro isn't strictly technology, but it is good fun. These little lip glosses can be used as a lip gloss if you like, but their main function is as a confectionery product! The little tubes contain sweets such as honey or raspberry and can be added to tea/coffee or even spread onto your toast! I couldn't find a price for them, but they're good fun nevertheless.

Sweet confectionery lip gloss.
Picture credit: Japan Trends.

Finally, I could not resist this last gadget! It's a little mobile phone cleaner, disguised as a compact (although I think it looks more like a macaroon). It's designed by Yukiko Yano and is a funny little gift if you have money to spare (although I could not find a reliable price for it). It's available through IT media.

Picture credit: Japanese Trends.

Source: Japantrends.com

Update on my Chairty Trek.

2011-10-17T16:16:00.001+01:00

Hi everyone,

Since I posted about my charity trek (if you haven't seen it, it's here [click]), I have had so much positive support from everyone. I really appreciate everything that you are all doing to help me. The generosity that has been shown has brought me close to tears!

I have decided to go ahead with the raffle and have already had some very kind donations for prizes. Daniel Sandler cosmetics have offered me over £120 worth of cosmetics!!!! So please stay tuned for details of how you can buy tickets.

I am having a website built for me as a generous donation. I will of course be telling you all about that once things get a little more established. Some of you have been really kind in donating to my Just Giving page too. Two of the top British beauty bloggers, Fleur De Force and Klaire De Lys have also offered their support. A dear friend, Ice Cream Bun, has kindly writen a beautiful post about what I am doing too.

I have been spending a lot of time emailing youtube beauty gurus and cosmetics companies seeking support and possible raffle prizes so hopefully I start seeing some more results soon. I am also hoping to write to some beauty magazines and newspapers, hopefully they will tell my story and help to spread the word.

Aside from my charity trek, I am hoping to write up a few reviews on Origins cosmetics and I also have written a quirky little blog post about gadgets that look like cosmetics (all will be revealed).

Thank you everyone for your support soon. Every single one of you have been amazing and I have noted down everyone who has helped me so that I can make sure you receive the credit you deserve when I write follow up posts.

Bloggers! I need your help!

2011-10-12T09:01:00.000+01:00

Fellow bloggers, blog readers and cosmetics brands; this is a post asking for your help!!

In September next year I will be embarking on a trek through the Indian Himalayas in order to raise money for the Helen Bamber Foundation. The Helen Bamber foundation is an organisation set up to help victims of human rights violations including torture, sex trafficking and rape. They are a truly wonderful organisation and to show you how special organisations like them are, I am going to tell you a true story.

When I was younger I was raped. The experience was extremely traumatic and lead to a long spell of depression, during which I tried to take my own life. It happened when I was 17years old and the following two years are a blur to me. I cannot remember a thing about them. However, I survived and since then I have worked hard to get my life back on track. I re-took my alevels (I failed the first batch due to the the post-traumatic stress that I underwent following the assault) and managed to get into university. Now I have a bright future ahead of me, a loving boyfriend and lots of wonderful friends. My confidence is growing day by day and I am slowly rebuilding my life. Of course, there are hurdles that I sometimes trip over on the way, but generally things are going well.

I could not have done this without the help of charities like Rape Crisis and the Helen Bamber Foundation. Now that I am in a much better place, both mentally and physically, I want to give something back to organisations that help people like me.

I have set myself the goal of raising £2000 (a little over 3000 American dollars). But, as we all know, the current world economy has left everyone struggling. Raising this sum of money is proving incredibly difficult.

I therefore would like to ask for your support. I am not asking for money (although if you could spare even a tiny amount, I would be incredibly grateful). The main thing at the moment is spreading the word about what I am doing. Who better to ask than the blogging community? I would like to ask you all for a huge favour. Please could you help me by mentioning what I am doing via your blogs, twitter, facebook etc. Feel free to use the pictures displayed in this post.

Together we can make a difference!

You can sponsor me via my Just Giving page: HERE!!!!! (click)

Please note that my real name is Donna Gilliard, Voe is my "internet persona" that I used when I first began this blog for privacy reasons. Since then, I have decided that this cause is well worth me spilling my real name.

You can also sponsor me via a text message. Simply text "DONN86" followed by the amount you wish to donate (£1, £2, £3, £4, £5 or £10) to 70070. Donations will be made in pound sterling, but as far as I can see, you can donate from any country (but if in doubt, contact Vodaphone, who run this wonderful service, here).

For more information on what I am doing, please feel free to email me at: voebeauty@gmail.com or tweet me using @Voe2.

I am going to start writing to makeup brands and cosmetics companies over the next few weeks, so if anybody has any suggestions of companies that may be willing to help me, please let me know. Also, if anyone is skillful at using photoshop or computer packages similar to that and is willing to help me out with designing leaflets, posters, videos etc please do let me know. I have started sending emails out to fellow bloggers already, but unfortunately I haven't had a single reply! Hopefully this post will show that I am being genuine in what I am doing.

I ask that comments, emails and tweets are kept sensitive to my experiences. It has been an incredibly difficult task writing this blog post and it has taken me months to pluck up the courage to be so honest with you all.

Thank you for taking the time to read this post.

PS. I am planning to hold an "online raffle" in order to raise money for my trek. I am still working out how I can do this online, but please follow my blog and twitter to remain updated! I am going to write to cosmetics brands etc and ask them if they would be willing to donate prizes to my raffle, so it should be a good one that you don't want to miss out on!!

Handpicked Media Get Blogging Winner!

2011-10-11T17:19:00.000+01:00

I just got home and was in a very bad mood - it's been a long, tough and stressful day. My plan was to pour myself a [large] glass of wine and procrastinated in front of the television for a while. But, before I did so, I thought I had better quickly check me emails. Can you believe my surprise when I discovered that my blog had won Get Blogging for September this year?

A big thank you to Handpicked media for selecting my blog for their September Get Blogging awards. It has brought me such happiness to know that people enjoy reading my blog and the recognition this has brought is wonderful!

I would also like to take this opportunity to express a huge thank you to my readers and supporters! I could not be doing what I am doing without you!

Fake Tan - a must read!

2011-10-09T14:59:00.000+01:00

Personally, I have never been one for fake tan. However, it is very popular with women (and more recently, men) and so I decided to explore how it works and how safe it really is. I found out some very interesting information about it.

Fake tan contains a substance called dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a chemical that binds to the surface of the skin, producing a non-toxic, bronze colour. These bronze pigments are called melanoidins (Burkhart & Burkhart 2009). Melanoidins cannot be washed from the skin, but after 5-7 days they will gradually disappear as the surface of the skin sheds and renews itself.

Another chemical, erythrulose, works in exactly the same way as dihydroxyacetone, except that its' effects are slower and the bronze colour takes longer to develop (Burkhart & Burkhart 2009). This chemical is more commonly found in gradual self tanners.

Fake tan comes in a variety of different forms: emulsions (creams), gels or sprays. The form that the tan comes in does not affect the quality of the tan or how well the dihydroxyacetone (DHA) works (Balogh et al. 2011).

Research has found that DHA can generate 180% more free radicals in the skin than is normal during sun exposure (Jung et al. 2008). This means that sun exposure should be avoided whilst using fake tan as it will almost certainly lead to premature aging and skin damage! Although some self tan agents do claim to contain SPF agents, the SPF tends to be very low (around 3 or 4) and does not last for more than a few hours. A dermatology scientist, Draelos (2002), states that "Self tanning creams are a method of safely stimulating the appearance of a tan. However, other sun protection is essential".

There is a lot of research out there supporting the fact that DHA in self tanning products increases the development of free redicals within the skin so I am quite surprised that this isn't more widely spoken about. It seems that self tan is a very safe way of "recreating" a tan, so long as you don't go out into the sun. Considering a lot of people use it before a holiday so that that they do not have to "look pastey and white" on the beach I think this needs to be discussed more openly. Fellow beauty bloggers, feel free to link back to this article (or write your own) and let the community know about this!

Of course, fake tan is safe to use on the odd occassion, for example before an evening out, so here are some tips I put together using the science journals referenced below:

Tips on how to make your fake tan last:

Dihydroxyacetone functions best in a slightly acidic environment so try to avoid alkaline soaps or detergents and foaming face washes.

Water can affect how well the self tanner binds to the skin, so ensure your skin is as dry as possible before application.

Exfoliate your skin before applying the self tan as this will ensure the dihydroxyacetone penetrates deeper.

Always use additional sun protection with your fake tan and try to avoid too much sun exposure whilst wearing it.

Finally, because I'm feeling mean.... here's some of the worst fake tanners I could find on the web. Can you do any better?

Chelsy Davy (Prince Harrys' ex)
From: Blow Blog!

Chantelle
Source: Big Pictures

I don't know who this is, but it made me laugh.
Source: Guzer.com

References:

Balogh, T., Pedriali, C., Gama, E., Pinto, C., Bedin, V., Villa, R., Kaneko, T., Consiglieri, V., Velasco, R., Baby, A. 2011 Study of sunless tanning formulas using molten snake skin as an alternative membrane model. International journal of cosmetic science. 33 (4) 359-365.

Burkhart, C., Burkhart, C. 2009 Dihydroxyacetone and methods to improve its performance as an artificial tanner. The open dermatology journal. 3, 42-43.

Draelos, Z. 2002 Self-tanning lotions: are they a healthy way to achieve a tan? American journal of clinical dermatology. 3 (5) 317-318.

Jung, K., Seifert, M., Herrling, T., Fuchs, J. 2008 UV-generated free radicals (FR) in skin: Their prevention by sunscreens and their induction by self-tanning agents. Spectromicia part A. 69 (5) 1423-1428.

Thank you, Michelle, for featuring me.

2011-10-07T21:18:00.000+01:00

Do you guys know about the blog, "Hot Pink Combat Boots" by Michelle? It's a blog that I have been following for a while now and it is brilliant. Michelle is great and she recently mentioned me in one of her posts about essential oils. It's a great post and I recommend everyone takes a look!

Thank you, Michelle, for featuring in me in such a brilliant blog!

"If you want good skin, have the courage to cut back".

2011-10-04T18:30:00.000+01:00

"If you want good skin, have the courage to cut back on cosmetics." - Chizu Saeki, 2004

I have seen advice out there on layering up beauty products. Some of the advice has included some 10 or more products, to be used in one go! I think it's safe to say that anyone who suggests this cannot be taken seriously and their credentials looked into. Anyone who knows about the skin will tell you that overloading it with products, chemical or organic, is a bad thing.

Your skin is a living thing, in fact it is technically an organ like your heat or liver. It contains cells that need to breathe. So, if you smother it in layers of heavy creams and other such products you end up cutting off the skins' supply of oxygen and nutrients. Where as most of these are provided to the skin from the blood, some diffuses into your skin from the surrounding air. So, covering up the skin like this can be detrimental.

Heavy skin care products also block your pores. This means that when you sweat, the sweat cannot escape. The blocked pores provide the perfect warm, damp environment that bacteria love! This is what gives you spots and black heads.

When people have problem skin, they tend to seek all kinds of remedies and will sample cream after cream after cream. But, sometimes the best thing you can do for your skin is absolutely nothing. Give your skin a break and see how it gets on.

Don't forget that the skin is amazing at taking care of itself. It can keep itself clean through sweating and secreting oils. These oils also protect it. Have you ever noticed how the people who use the least products always have the best skin?

You should be giving your skin a break from makeup and cosmetics about twice a week. Sometimes this can be difficult as if your skin is blemished, all you want to do is hide those blemishes. But if you have the courage to cut back on your beauty regime, then you will be rewarded.

Take a step back and look at your skin carefully. When you look closely at your face in the mirror you will see that some areas look good and others not so good. Leave the good parts well alone. They are doing fine by themselves. Instead, focus on the bad parts only.

For example, if your skin is dry then it needs moisture. It doesn't necessarily need nutrients. So use a moisturising cream on the dry parts only, don't smother it all over your face and try to avoid piling on nutrient rich serums and creams, they are not what dry skin requires. As Chizu Saeki (a leading skin care expert) says, "you wouldn't pile fertiliser on a wilting tree. You would water it first."

Give it a go. Give your skin a break and let it breathe.

Thank you for reading.

My exciting new project.

2011-10-03T22:02:00.000+01:00

I wish I looked like this when I'm studying.

For those of you who do not follow me on twitter, I am pleased to say that over the next 6 months I will be working on a literature review project. This is a project that collates as much scientific information as one can and puts it all together to draw some conclusions from it all. I have decided to look at oestrogen in the environment and its' effect on endometriosis.

I am a sufferer of endometriosis and so this topic has always fascinated me. I want to explore the notion that oestrogen-like chemicals are in the plastics that are used to make water bottles and also in cosmetics. Then I want to look at whether or not these oestrogen-like substances are absorbed into our bodies. If so, do they have an adverse effect on endometriosis?

I will keep you up to date on this topic as and when I find out some interesting information that I think you may like. But for now, I want to tell you about an interesting research paper I found today by Adrienne Olson, John Link, James Waisman and Thomas Kupiec.

The paper looks at moisturisers that claim to "rejuvenate" the skin (ie. anti-wrinkles creams). The scientists took several moisturisers at random. None of these creams had oestrogen listed on their ingredients list. But, when analysed, they found that four of them contained types of oestrogen within them!

Interestingly, the paper goes on to say that "cosmetic laws are based on an outdated concept that the skin blocks chemicals from being absorbed into the body. Cosmetics companies are relied upon to ensure the safety of their own products and to provide accurate ingredients labels. No government agency tests these products unless a problem is reported." (Olson et al. 2009).

I thought this was very interesting. I cannot wait to look into all this in a lot more detail! I get asked a lot about parabens (oestrogen-like substances) and in an earlier post I wrote about the media storm surrounding them and how it has been blown out of proportion. This project has the potential to prove me wrong! We shall see.......

If anyone reading this has been diagnosed with endometriosis, I would like to know if you have ever received advice to avoid plastic bottles/food containers or certain cosmetics? Feel free to email me on voebeauty@gmail.com or DM me via twitter (@Voe2). I will treat all correspondence with the strictest confidence and anonymity.

PS. I will be very busy over the next few months so if you notice a slight slow down in my blog posts, it is because I will be working on this exciting new project. Hopefully it will be worth it!

Me - working! I told you I don't look as sexy as the image at the top of this post. Shame.

References:
Olson, A. Link, J. Waisman, J. Kupiec, T. Breast cancer patients unknowingly dosing themselves with estrogen by using topical moisturisers. Journal of clinical oncology. September, 2009. 27 (26)

A guide to the unsavoury.

2011-10-01T15:50:00.000+01:00

I had a sudden surge of inspiration to write this whilst laying in bed last night trying to sleep. It's not directly related to the themes of this blog, however, you could say that beauty drives the men I am about to describe to behave the way they do. So, in a way it is related.... kind of.

Picture Credit: Obvious Mag.

Girls, you must have all experienced this? You're walking down the street quite contently, keeping yourself to yourself when you become subjected to a herd of cat calls, beeping, shouting. Cat calls and beeping horns are something I can just about live with. However, comments like these are what I have a problem with:

"Sweet pu**y!"
"I want to lick your [insert profanity]!"
"I want to c*m on your face/[insert other female body part]!"
"I want to rape you!"
(Yes, these are all genuine and I have been on the receiving end of them in the past).
There's more, but they are not appropriate for this blog (or anywhere for that matter).

Unfortunately I do not live in the nicest of areas as we simply cannot afford to move out of the area just yet. The flat I live in is on the side of a main road consisting of three parades of shops, a supermarket and a train station so it is very busy. I used to happily walk down to the supermarket 2/3 times a week to buy groceries. But, it is getting to the stage where I am very uneasy about doing so. I hate leaving the house because I know what is waiting for me out there - insalubrious men waiting to pounce!

I just wish that they men would take a second to think about what they are doing. Would they shout those comments listed above at their mothers/sisters/daughters? Most of us are/will be mothers/sisters/daughters to someone so why is it ok to degrade us more than ones own relation?

Most people with half a brain can tell which girls walking down the street enjoy male attention and which ones don't. Although that shouldn't really come into it, I wish men would think about it a little more. I have noticed that most of the worst comments are directed at the girls who obviously do not want it! The shy ones whom are covered from head to toe, hold their heads low and hide behind their hair as much as possible. This says a lot about the men perpetrating these acts, doesn't it?

With all that said I would like to point out that Not all men are pervs!!

I have seen some girls react very badly to a man who is simply asking them the time or some other trivial question. If a man is polite about what he is saying (and saying it to my face, not bellowing it from the window of a moving vehicle) then I take it as a compliment. I simply answer them with "Sorry, I am already taken" or "I'm only 15" (that one freaks them out and is great fun*)! Most of the time this works perfectly well and if it doesn't then you can class the men into the category described at the beginning of this post and treat them as such.

So I have started putting together a little guide for the apposite men out there who come across as unsavoury....

Voes guide to not coming across as a perverted loser:

1] Look at our faces when you talk to us. Staring at ones chest or legs, no matter how irresistible they are, will get you no where.

2] This is obvious, but I better put it in anyway. Talk to us face to face, not from a moving vehicle (you are a coward if you do that)!

3] Don't look at our bottoms as we walk away. Us girls are very adapt at using things around us to keep an eye on you and we will be watching you via reflections in glass/windows/shiny things whilst we walk away.

4] When asking a girl a genuine question about her hair/dress sense etc drop the fact that you have a girlfriend/wife/mother into the question.

For example, I was once in a well known clothing store buying bras. The male shop assistant said to me "Shouldn't your boyfriend be buying these for you?" (Valentines day was just around the corner), to which I thought "ugh"! But then he rescued himself by saying "my wife hand washes all of her bras because if you put them in the washing machine it ruins the under wiring," to which I thought, "oh, ok". I walked away thinking he was just genuinely curious and not trying to pick me up. Whether he actually was or not does not matter because I did not feel uncomfortable and I learnt something!!

5] Don't stare at us. Have you ever been in that situation where a man is continuously staring at you, desperately trying to make eye contact? It works in the movies ... but not in real life. Just don't. (If you're already in a relationship together and making eye contact across a candle lit dinner for two, then that is different).

That's all I can think of at the moment! Please add any of your own by commenting below!!! I will hopefully update it with your suggestions.

So, there you have it. My musing about men that is very loosely tied to the theme behind this blog and therefore appropriate to be posted here.

Oh and if any of the grotty men described at the start of this post are reading this .........

I'm learning to shoot!!!

* For those not living in the UK:- 16 is the age of sexual consent. If you sleep with a girl under that age and she reports you, then you will be charged with rape.

Urea isn't so vile.

2011-09-24T21:07:00.000+01:00

I have seen a few false segments of information circling the Internet regarding the use of urea in cosmetics.

Screen cap from twitter.

The link in the above screen cap leads to Wikipedia. The problem with wikipedia is that anyone can submit information to that page, regardless of qualifications/knowledge, so it is frequently incorrect. At university we are banned from using wikipedia and I never ever use it to research articles that I write here. I always refer to reliable sources, including scientific journals and published text books.

The truth about urea in cosmetics is not as scary as it sounds. It is true that urea is found in urine, but it is a perfectly natural substance found all over our bodies, inside all of our cells. It is a waste product of metabolism (making energy) and so it is incorrect to associate it solely with urine.

When used in cosmetics, urea is synthetically made within a laboratory. It does not come from animals.

It seems a shame to reject the synthesis or urea and beat the "it's derived from animals" drum because the synthesis of urea is one of sciences' greatest achievements! It has done a lot for science, not only extending into the beauty industry but also into medicine. Urea was first synthesised by Wohler in 1828 and has been making waves ever since1. It was the first ever organic compound to be made artificially in a lab2!

Urea is made by combining carbon dioxide and dehydrated ammonia in a method called the Bosch-Meiser method3 and is used in beauty products as a skin humectant. It helps the skin to retain water and is therefore very moisturising. It is often found in a lot of prescibed treatments for dry skin conditions such as eczema.

The controversy surrounding urea does not come from its' use in cosmetics, but more for its' use in fertilisers. If over used it tends to get washed from the fields when it rains and can end up in rivers. Contray to many beliefs, it does not poison the rivers; but in fact encourages plants to grow much bigger and in far greater numbers than they normally would. This means that they can block out light which is detrimental to the wildlife that lives in these ecosystems.

References:

1] Mckie, D. Wohlers synthetic urea and the rejection of vitalism: a chemical legend. Nature journal. 1944. 153. 608-610.

2] Justus von Leiberg and Freidrich Wohler. Chemical heritage foundation. http://www.chemheritage.org/discover/chemistry-in-history/themes/molecular-synthesis-structure-and-bonding/liebig-and-wohler.aspx [accessed online 2011].

3] Krase, H. Gaddy, V. Clark, K. A direct synthetic urea process. Industrial engineering chemistry. 1930. 22 (3) 289-293.

Time tested beauty tips.

2011-09-21T16:07:00.000+01:00

I wanted to share with you my favourite poem.

"Time tested beauty tips" by Sam Levenson was also my heroin, Audrey Hepburns' favourite poem. I think it is the best beauty advice that someone can provide and beats all of the advice on this blog put together!

Here is the full poem, I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

For attractive lips, speak words of kindness.
For lovely eyes, seek out the good in people.
For a slim figure, share your food with the hungry.
For beautiful hair, let a child run his or her fingers through it once a day.
For poise, walk with the knowledge you'll never walk alone.

People, even more than things, have to be restored, renewed, revived, reclaimed, and redeemed; Never throw out anybody.

Remember, If you ever need a helping hand, you'll find one at the end of your arm.
As you grow older, you will discover that you have two hands, one for helping yourself, the other for helping others.

The beauty of a woman is not in the clothes she wears, the figure that she carries, or the way she combs her hair. The beauty of a woman must be seen from in her eyes, because that is the doorway to her heart, the place where love resides.

The beauty of a woman is not in a facial mole, but true beauty in a woman is reflected in her soul. It is the caring that she lovingly gives, the passion that she shows, and the beauty of a woman with passing years only grows!

---Sam Levenson

Children advertising cosmetics via blogs & youtube.

2011-09-17T09:40:00.000+01:00

I awoke this morning to a news segment regarding children and advertising. This has come under fire from the advertising standards agency and will be looked at by Prime Minister, David Cameron, next week.

The main problem is with social networking games. These games are designed by a brand and children play them. The game is often designed around the brand itself and this allows the child to build up a positive association (from playing the game) with the brand on a sub-conscious level.

However, the part of the news segment that caught my eye was pier to pier marketing and the use of brand ambassadors. This is considered very wrong. Although the man on the news claimed this is rare, I immediately thought about blogs and youtube. Beauty bloggers/v-loggers are getting younger and younger these days, yet the beauty industry is increasingly using the tactic of sending them free products in exchange for positive reviews. Children are easily manipulated so this is a successful way of increasing sales, because children are more likely to trust each others opinions than that of an adult.

Do you think this is right or wrong? Would you like to see the advertising standards agency look into this?

I look forward to hearing your opinions and will try to write a follow up post when I have more time!

Thank you for reading and please do not forget to follow me on twitter!

Beware: Secret ingredients.

2011-09-15T09:39:00.000+01:00

I found this little article a few days a go and instantly thought back to some of the recent anti-aging creams I have reviewed on this blog, especially Lancome LR 2412 4%, with its' mysterious secret ingredient: LR2412.

This article is from October 1961 and was printed in the Miami News. A copy of it can be found here, or I have screen capped it below:-

Click to expand pictures.

It's a fascinating article, in which the Food & drugs administration (FDA) in America warns consumers to avoid cosmetics that contain mysterious miracle ingredients! They go on to say, "don't fall for products that claim to restore youthful skin etc...the promoters are only interested in your money!"

The article also mentions that cosmetic ingredients do not need to be revealed when they are played up for promotional reasons. This got me thinking, does this rule still stand? Companies, such as Lancome, do this a lot. For example, what is LR 2412 in their new Visionnaire serum? It's a secret!

I took a look at the FDA website and found this.

"Accordingly, the cosmetic ingredient labeling regulation does not require the declaration of the identity of an ingredient FDA has accepted as exempt from public disclosure. In lieu of the declaration of the name of a confidential ingredient, the phrase " and other ingredients" may be used at the end of the ingredient declaration." - FDA, section 5,C,3,B.

(I was unable to find the European equivalent of these guidelines).

Of course, the secret ingredient must be tested and apply to strict safety standards. But, do we not have a right to know what our cosmetics contain? It seems the rules surrounding cosmetic ingredients are not as clear cut as we might expect.

Thank you for reading.
PS. I will finish with an interesting fact: did you know that rules regarding cosmetics companies listing their ingredients did not come into force until the 1970s? That's only 30 years ago!

Lancome Visionnaire LR 2412 4%.

2011-09-13T09:22:00.000+01:00

Lancome Visionnaire LR 2412 4% is a new skin care product that seems to be taking the world by storm. With recent reports that Kate Middleton swears by it, the media have been creating a frenzy around this product. But, is it all hot air or is there some substance to this new product?

Firstly, the media storm needs to be taken with a pinch of salt. Kate Middleton is beautiful, but it is an unfortunate fact that people like her have just been lucky in the gene lottery that exists when we are first conceived. It is unlikely that this “miracle” cream is the reason for her youthful beauty!

Secondly, the price of this product is not something that can be ignored. £190 for 100ml!! Erm... no.

Thirdly, the product claims. The website boasts: “Discover a skincare product so powerful that over half of women who used Visionnaire choose to delay lasers, fillers and peels.” This proves nothing. Oh, there’s also small print attached to this “fact”: “tested on 34 women”. Read my article, “How cosmetics adverts manipulate: sample sizes” to find out why this makes the claim completely irrelevant.

Screen cap from lancome website.

Note the buzz words in the description above: appear, as if.

“For best results use Genifique during the day and Visionnaire at night, ALL YEAR LONG!!” ... so you can splash away more of your hard earned cash (Genifique costs £182.17 per 100ml of product). You can read about my opinions on Genfique here (I’ll save you a trip; they’re not very positive).

Ok, I realise I am being very harsh and slightly sarcastic, so to stop the Lancome fat cats suing my arse I better take an honest, unbiased look at the ingredients.

What is LR 2412 4%? I searched high and low. I have not got a clue. Word is that it’s adenosine₁. This molecule is one of those slightly unusual ones that is capable of mixing with both water and oil. This means that it is easily absorbed into the skin. Adenosine is one of my favourite molecules and one that I know quite a bit about. It is a molecule that is responsible for sending messages from cell to cell. It causes drowsiness in the brain (to aid sleep) and also causes the blood vessels to dilate. This lets more oxygen in. Obviously, this is a good thing because more oxygenated blood in the face means a plumper, brighter complexion! But, I have a great tip for getting more oxygenated blood into your face and its’ free!

Ready... stand up, now bend over with your head between your legs, the oxygenated blood will rush from your heart into your head. Easy.

The other ingredients in the cream include silicones and light reflecting particles which I have written about a lot throughout the course of this blog. They are fab, will make your complexion bright and improve the overall look of your skin! Is it worth £190 for 100ml of them? I’ll leave that up to you to decide.

Jasmonic acid is another ingredient that is creating a bit of a buzz within the cosmetics industry. It’s a very interesting substance that is produced in plants. It is found in large concentrations when fruit is developing₂ which implies that it plays a role in cell development. Interestingly, jasmonic acid is associated with ‘wound healing’ and defensive responses in plants₃. But, from my research into this molecule so far, I fail to see how this will have any effect on aging in humans. I will probably look into this substance in a lot more detail and write an article about it in the future.

Back to Lancome Vissionnaire LR 2412 4%.

My conclusion: not worth the hype, certianly not worth the price .... don’t bother.

Thank you for reading.

References:

1] Marta, Truth in aging. [accessed online 2011]. Truthinaging .com.

2] Fan, X. Et al. Changes in jasmonic acid concentration during early developmental stage of apple fruit. Physicolocial Plantarum. April 2006. 101 (2) 328-332.

3] huang, X. Et al. Nitric acid is induced by wouding and influences jasmonic acid signalling in Arabidopsis thaliana. Planta. August 2003. 218 (6) 938-946.

For more information on this product, may I recommend this blog: The science of beauty by Sarah. She has writen a fab review on this product and is a lot less cynical than I am!

It's National Eczema Week.

2011-09-12T13:47:00.000+01:00

This week is National eczema week so I thought I'd write a short article about the causes behind eczema and some ways of keeping it under control.

What is eczema?

Eczema is a skin condition that causes dryness, itching and can be very uncomfortable. My brother has suffered from terrible eczema from a very young age. His arms and legs become dry and scaly, becoming so itchy that it can sometimes be unbearable for him. He has a hard time trying to avoid scratching himself to a bloody mess. My brothers' eczema is a bad case, but eczema exists at different grades. Some people get it very mildly whereas others can suffer with very severe eczema all over the body.

I suffer from very dry hands, but this is not eczema. It is, in fact, "hand washing dermatitis" caused by washing my hands too much. This is because I work in a laboratory so every time I leave and enter, I must scrub my hands. I find that using a moisturising hand soap and applying hand cream every time I wash my hands helps.

What causes eczema?

Eczema is an auto-immune disease. This means that it is caused by the body reacting to something that is not there, or reacting to something in a very exaggerated way. When people first get eczema, they often look back at what they wore/used a few days before. However, this is a fairly pointless exercise because the under lining cause of eczema could be something you came into contact with many years a go!

Lets say that it is a type of chemical produced by a tree that has caused your body to react. A few years a go, you would have come into contact with this chemical and the cells deep within your skin will have detected it. They then will create "memory cells" that remember the chemical and these cells can last a life time. Years later, you may come into contact with the chemical itself again, or something similar (or even something completely unrelated). The memory cells will detect this even if it is not the same chemical and inform your body to begin fighting it. The resulting immune response causes eczema.

Stress can sometimes trigger this immune response which is why most people find that their eczema gets worse during stressful periods in their lives.

Treating eczema.

It is important to speak to your doctor about any skin conditions you may have. Your doctor can then diagnose eczema and prescribe you with creams that may help. These will often be emollient creams or in severe cases, steroid creams may be needed.

Some people find that oats can really help. I have a recipe on how to make your own body cream out of oats here. Another tip, is to pour some organic porridge oats into a stocking, tie the ends and then place it into your bath whilst you soak in it. The oaty goodness will seep into the water and sooth your dry skin.

Believe it or not, stinging nettles can help too. They contain anti-inflammatory ingredients that can sooth the skin. Simply blend them up (once they are blended they loose their sting) and apply to the skin.

Some people find that diet can play an important role in eczema. Allergies can affect the skin and so it may be worthwhile cutting certain things out of your diet over a period of time to see if that helps. Common causes tend to be peanuts, milk and wheat.

DIY sage tooth powder.

2011-09-11T11:50:00.000+01:00

Last but not least in my mini-series for beautiful teeth, is this wonderful tooth powder!

This tooth powder is made from sage and sea salt and is an excellent plaque remover and gum soother. The sage has antiseptic properties so will sooth the gums and its' aromatic scent will leave breath clean and fresh. The powder is non-abrasive and can be used every day. It works perfectly well used along side my other two recipes for tooth whitener and toothpaste.

DIY organic tooth powder recipe.

Ingredients:

350g sea salt.
100g of fresh sage leaves (can be easily grown in the garden/on the window sill of bought from most supermarkets).

Method:

Chop the sage leaves into small pieces, then ground them with the sea salt using the back of a spoon.

Place the salt & sage onto a small plate/baking tray and bake in the oven on the lowest heat for 20 minutes. Be carefully not to let the sage burn, so keep an eye on it. If you feel that the sage is beginning to cook, turn the oven off but leave it in there. The idea is to dry out the sage and salt.

Once baked, remove the sage and salt from the oven and grind down to a powder. You can use the back of a spoon for this or a salt/coffee grinder if you have one.

Store your tooth powder in a sterilised, air-tight jar and use when needed. This powder will store well if kept in a cool, dark place and can be used until the aroma of the sage has gone.

Adapted from "Grow your own drugs" by James Wong.

DIY organic tooth paste.

2011-09-10T09:22:00.000+01:00

This recipe is the second in my series of easy, homemade tooth products. Tooth paste is a staple in everyones' cleansing routine and this organic recipe is well worth a try. The baking powder will clean away unwanted stains whilst the salt kills nasty bacteria, meanwhile the peppermint will leave your breath minty-fresh!!

My Great-nan cleaned her teeth with nothing but salt every day and always had the most beautiful smile. She never lost her teeth, even into old age and despite being a smoker her teeth were always pearly white. Here is a more advanced version of my Nans' fail safe that I'm sure you'll love.

DIY natural tooth paste recipe.

Ingredients:

A couple of sprigs of fresh peppermint (you can use peppermint essential oil instead).
Half a cup of water.
Half a teaspoon of baking powder.
Half a teaspoon of sea salt.

Method:

Begin by pouring the water into a saucepan and bringing it to the boil. Add the peppermint (chopped) and reduce the heat so that the water is simmering gently. Leave this to simmer for 10 minutes and then sieve it, discarding the leaves. Put to one side to cool. (If you are using peppermint essential oil, skip this step).

Place the salt and baking powder into a small bowl and add 1-2 drops of the peppermint water you made earlier (or the essential oil) and mix with a spoon until a smooth paste forms.

You now have your very own toothpaste!! Use when required as you would a store-bought tooth paste. Oh and feel free to drink the left over peppermint water (it's basically peppermint tea and is great for the digestive system)!

Perfect white teeth - the organic way.

2011-09-09T15:56:00.000+01:00

Over the next three days I will tell you how to make your very own organic tooth paste, tooth whitener and tooth powder at home. The recipes use fresh ingredients that can be easily and cheaply grown in your own garden or bought from the local supermarket, along side simple store cupboard ingredients. You'll be shocked at just how easy it is!!

First, the simplest recipe: Tooth whitener.

Organic, DIY tooth whitener recipe.

Ingredients:

1 Strawberry.

Method:

Simply crush the strawberry using a fork or the back of a spoon until it forms a soft pulp. you can add a little baking powder at this stage, but baking powder is optional. Dip your tooth brush into it and scrub onto your teeth as if you were brushing your teeth with any regular tooth paste.

Use this recipe along side your normal tooth-brushing routine.

Strawberries contain malic acid, a substance that can break down stains and remove them from the surface of your teeth. Of course, eating a plate of strawberries will do the trick too, just make sure you chew them thoroughly!!

Tomorrow I will post up a recipe for toothpaste that I'm sure you'll enjoy!!

Do something you love to make you feel good.

2011-09-05T14:09:00.000+01:00

I normally feel like I waste my weekends as I tend to spend them doing monotonous tasks that I haven't had time to do during the week or I just vegetate in front of the television.

However, this weekend was different. Saturday was very sunny and warm so I spent it outside in the garden. I cut back all of my plants in preparation for winter and went around collecting seeds for next year. I love gardening, it's very relaxing and has been shown to help those with anxiety or depression. It's good for you on the inside and outside because the fresh air is also perfect for feeding your skin with precious oxygen.

On the Sunday it poured with rain so I decided to do some painting. I haven't done a painting in the last 6 months and I'd almost forgotten how nice it makes me feel. It requires a certain amount of concentration so helps to clear the mind, but it isn't stressful (most of the time) so it is incredibly relaxing. I'd already prepared Sunday dinner the previous day (I made chicken casserole) so I didn't need to worry about that. I just needed to pop it into the oven a few hours before dinner time - no worries.

By the time Sunday evening had arrived I felt really good and today (Monday) I feel refreshed and revived. I've promised myself that I need to do the things I love more often. It is amazing how much difference they can make to your state of mind and how beautiful they can make you feel (inside and out).

With the stresses and strains of modern day living it can sometimes he difficult to remember to take care of number 1 (yourself). But, sometimes a little "me time" is very important for recharging the batteries. I am gradually learning this and teaching myself to devote more time to my various hobbies. They keep me grounded and are also essential for my well being. So, remember to take some time out for yourself whenever you can. Your body and mind will thank you for it by rewarding you with fresh, glowing skin and complexion. Beauty comes from within and shines through to the outside!

_________________________________________________________________________________

Oh and to top off my weekend, I have just received an email from "Easy Living Magazine" informing me that I have won a copy of the book, "Cox cookies & cake" by Eric Lanard! I am over the moon and will let you all know what I think of the book once I have tried out some of the recipes. Baking is my other hobby (along side gardening and painting) so to find out this fabulous news just after writing todays' post is very coincidental!! It's obviously just meant to be.

Cupcakes I baked as a gift for a family member.

My favourite body lotion.

2011-09-03T11:53:00.000+01:00

Garnier Body Tonic.

When I was a teenager I used this product all of the time. I simply loved it for the way it smelt and the way it made my skin feel more toned and firmer. For some reason, as I got older I drifted away from it and started using other brands of body moisturiser. Then, I recently saw it whilst out shopping and decided to buy it. I cannot remember why I stopped using it and I wish I hadn't. The beautiful sweet, citrus smell brings back so many memories of my years as a teenager! I have promised myself that I will never stop using it again!

But, now I am in a position to analyse cosmetics, is this product really as good as it seems?

When I apply it, the moisturiser goes on really well. It's quite a thin consistency but this means that a little goes a long way. The smell is absolutely gorgeous and I have never found a another product to beat it. It's such a unique, distinctive smell that is instantly recognisable. I definitely do notice a toning effect too, although this is not my reason for buying it.

The ingredients list for this cream is quite small compared to a lot of body moisturisers. The first and most significant ingredient is Isopropyl Palimate (palm oil) which is a strong skin conditioning agent and moisturiser. Laminaria ochroleuca extract is seaweed extract. Seaweed is amazing. It gives the skin UV protection and is a proven anti-aging agent. Caffeine is another active ingredient in this cream and is probably responsible for the firmer, toned feeling that the cream gives the skin. Caffeine is a diuretic, so it will give a temporary toning effect.

Ingredients list for Garnier Body Tonic.

The distinctive fragrance probably comes from citral which is distilled from lemon grass. To dissolve the citral, mineral oil is used2. There is a lot of media attention surrounding mineral oil because a lot of people believe that it can absorbed through the skin and into the gut, causing digestive problems. At the concentration that it is found within skin care ingredients, this simply will not happen. Mineral oil is derived from petroleum, which some people find shocking. However, petroleum is a natural substance made from plants and animals. In high concentrations it is a skin irritant. But remember, mineral oil is the "good part" of petroleum that is extracted and purified. In the low concentrations found in cosmetics it is perfectly safe. It is, in fact, an extremely powerful moisturiser because it matches the natural lipid (fat) structure of the skin3,4.

The firming and toning effects of this cream are almost certainly only temporary. However, if I am honest, these are not the reason I buy this cream. I buy it because I adore the gorgeous scent and I love the way it glides onto my skin. The ingredients are natural and make my skin feel baby soft. I love this product and I promise never to let it fall by the wayside again.

References:

1] Antileukine 6, cosmetic-ingredient.com, [accessed online 2011].
2] britcanica.com [accessed online 2011].
3] Agero, A. Verallo-Rowell, V. A randomized double-blind controlled trial comparing extra virgin coconut oil with mineral oil as a moisturiser for mild to moderate xerosis. 2004. Dermatitis. 15 (3) 109-116.
4] Proksch, E. The role of emollients in the management of diseases with chronic dry skin. 2008. Journal of pharamcological and biophysical research. 21 (2) 75-80.

Twitter warning.

2011-09-02T09:57:00.000+01:00

Some of you may know that I recently joined twitter. I'm still getting used to it but it has been a positive experience so far.

However, if you follow me, you will know that I started getting a lot of emails that look like this:

Click to enlarge

The email came from the address, support@twitter.com, so looked very genuine. I could not understand why they were threatening to suspend my account. So I asked a few people what they thought. Carrie (Not just skin deep beauty) pointed out that it could be a scam so just to be safe, I did not click on any of the links and reported it to twitter.

Twitter were very quick in their reply to me and sent me this email:

Click to enlarge.

They have also sent me another email since then, confirming this.

In hind sight, the fact that the fraudulent email says "to avoid permanent suspension of your twitter account click here for our special offers" should have made it obvious that something was not quite right. But unfortunately, sometimes it's only hind sight that makes you realise these things. So, if you receive an email like the one shown here, ignore it and let twitter know about it a.s.a.p.

As we're talking about twitter, I might as well use this opportunity to shamelessly promote my own twitter account! It's new and needs your support!! Please follow me! .......

@Voe2

Thank you!

Vichy Lift Activ Cream.

2011-08-27T13:12:00.000+01:00

Vichy is a brand of skin care products that has been around since 1931. They have created a complete thermal water range based on pharmacological research (my area of expertise). So I was very interested in their brand and the products they produce1.

A few weeks a go I ordered a sample of their cream, Vichy Lift Activ for normal skin. I ordered this free sample from their website as a regular customer would. Vichy have not been informed that I blog or that I intend to review their product so I am not under influence in any way.

Vichy creams contain a type of mineral water that is unique to Vichy. This water contains 17 minerals and 13 trace elements that have been shown it to be soothing, anti-inflammatory and also promotes the natural skin defenses so that they are more effective. The research tests are listed on the website and I see this as a very promising start.

Vichy are listed on PETAs list of companies that do test on animals and it is important to remember that they are owned by L'oreal (one of the worlds largest animal testing companies). However, Vichy state that they conform to very strict ethical guidelines during the production and testing of their products. It is down to you to decide if this issue is enough to make you steer clear of Vichy or if you are indifferent towards it.

As for the cream itself. I found it went onto my skin very smoothly and it was easy to blend all over my face and neck. I did find that it took a long time to absorb into my skin and left a slightly greasy residue. However, I will point out that my skin is naturally oily. Those with dryer skin would probably find this product really soothing and pleasant. It has left my skin incredibly soft. In fact, after using this cream my skin feels like velvet! I know that they have creams for oily skin as well as the sample I tried so I will not judge it based on this. The ingredients are what matter after all!

Vichy Lift Activ cream - ingredients

The active ingredient in this Vichy cream is Rhamnose. Rhamnose is a type of sugar and it has been found to stimulate monocytes (a type of human white blood cell) to produce proteins that help fight bacterial infections and disease2. Now, this sounds quite amazing. But as a skin care cream it's really not all that relevant. The skin is very good at protecting you from bacteria/disease and if you really want to boost your immunity, the best way to do so is via the food you eat. Having said that, research has found that rhamnose seems to stimulate skin fibroblasts (a type of skin cell) intro producing more collagen and therefore has an anti-aging effect3. This is quite an exciting find and I will be watching future research on this with interest.

The cream also contains a natural form of vitamin C which has been proven to boost collagen within the skin. However, they type of vitamin C in this product is magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Magnesium! Remember my post on Milk of magnesia (here)? Magnesium is an alkali substance that disrupts the acid mantle on the skins surface and it not recommended for regular use. But due to the fact that there seems to low concentrations of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate in this product, I wouldn't be too concerned over this.

In conclusion, the cream is quite good value for money. I found a huge range of prices for it depending on where you shop but considering a little goes a long way I feel that it really is not too bad as far as cost is concerned. The active ingredients within the cream show a very promising potential for fighting wrinkles and the cream itself is luxurious and leaves the skin feeling wonderful.

However, the cream is probably tested on animals and is certainly owned by L'oreal who are known for their animal testing. It was far too greasy for my skin but would probably work well for someone with dry skin. If you are interested in trying Vichy I recommend you apply for a free sample here, first. See what you think of it and go from there.

Vichy advertisements (I couldn't resist).

Vichy TV advert, July 2011.

It was watching a television advert that first brought my attention to Vichy. Can you see how extraordinarily blurry the woman is?

Screen Cap from Vichy advert, 2011. Taken from YouTube channel: Vichyukandireland.

Of course her skin looks amazing? It's so blurry you couldn't possibly see a blemish or wrinkle if you tried!! I therefore looked into this product in more detail, expecting to write a post pulling it to bits and telling everyone to stay away! Of course, this has not been the case. I am actually very indifferent to this product. I will not be purchasing it myself, but I also will not be telling others not to. They try to blind you with science jargon and blurry screen shots, but the basic product is not too bad.

I will, however, be looking into Rhamnose in more detail in the future and I will try to find other more natural creams that contain it.

References:

1] Vichy website, www.vichyconsult.co.uk [accessed August 2011].

2] Soel, et al. Activation of human monocytes by streptococcal rhamnose glucose polymers is mediated by CD14 antigen, and mannan binding protein and inhibits TNF-aplha release. 1995 The journal of immunology. 154 (2) 851-860.

3] Sahelian, R. Rhamnose Sugar, www.rashelian.com/rhamnose [accessed online August 2011].

4] youtube.co.uk/user/vichyukandireland [accessed August 2011].

Time to celebrate the grotesque?

2011-08-24T09:48:00.000+01:00

A recent article in the Sunday Observer caught my eye and I have wanted to give my spin on it for some time now. The article, written by the incredibly adept Viv Groskop, featured in the Observer on Sunday 14th August and goes under the heading: "Our beauty obsession is boring. Let's celebrate the grotesque."

In the article, Ms Groskop talks about the recent Danskin (US dance wear company) advertising campaign in which a series of celebrities are featured. One of these famous women is Christine Brinkley (aged 57). She is featured along side Hilary Duff (aged 23) and the two of them could easily pass for the same age. Despite being 34 years older than Hilary, Christine displays a positively youthful, glowing face. No wrinkles here!

Christine Brinkley, still ravishing at 57 years old.

Viv Groskop explains that these pictures display the vision of beauty that we are all supposed to seek. "Olympic standard fitness? Full make-up and perfectly blow dried hair, which remain immaculate both during and after your work out? Still hot in fishnets in your 50s? Why not? Young or old, we're all beautiful!" Just buy the right products!!

The pursuit of beauty is at full speed. Like a drag car, it's racing towards the end of the drag-strip and must pull the parachute to slow down, or it will crash and burn in a fiery ball of orange flames and the stench of burnt petrol. A bit over the top? Perhaps. But seriously, we're not buying the "beauty bullsh!t" anymore.

Mascara adverts. You know what I'm going to say. The adverts feature beautiful dark, chocolaty eyes, framed with long, fluttering, black lashes that seem to protrude from the eye in strong deviance of gravity. We all know that if our own lashes were really that long, they'd be hanging down over our eyes like a curtain. But, it's ok everyone. In the small print at the bottom of the advert the famous phrase pops up: "filmed with some lash inserts". As Viv Groskop says, "we all know this is code for: the worlds' false eyelash supply was exhausted in the making of this advert".

Along side this saturation of beautiful people selling us these miracle giving "elixir of youth" creams and gravity defying eyelash plumpers, we have the jargon. Pentapeptides, cosmeceuticals, humectants.

The beauty industry [lies] are slowing caving in. People are wising up. But, will the pointless pursuit of beauty ever cease?

Look at this index of articles on the Daily Mail website. I noticed it whilst researching this article:

Index listing from dailymail.co.uk

I am not a fan of the Daily Mail and I'm pretty sure Abbey Crouch was probably buying those jeans as a gift for her teenage niece/friend/neighbours' birthday; but it does offer an interesting insight into modern day culture.

A book, recently published, states that parents should steer clear of telling their young daughters that they are pretty. "It may damage their character"! After all, we cannot all be pretty so why try?

The beauty obsessed culture is largely driven by women. The persistent need to be prettier than your piers is fueled by the jealous, indignant competition that exists within the female sex. But what is the match sparking away underneath it all and lighting the ferocious flames? Surely it's the beauty industry?

The beauty industry wants it both ways. On one hand it's telling us that we are all beautiful, beauty comes from within after all. But then, it insists on ramming the products down our throats that we must buy in order to be, erm, beautiful.

But what is the answer to this? Should we, as Viv Groskop suggests, celebrate the grotesque?

For me, I think we should be celebrating the "average". Not the "average" that the beauty industry tries to kid us with (think Estee Lauder with their recent campaign featuring three women of differing ethnicity, "claiming that natural beauty transcends across cultural barriers too") but the real average. The one that exists in the majority of us. The fact is that we do not all have the studio lights, the makeup artists, hair stylists, photoshopping technology to protect us from what we really look like everyday of our lives. So what? We are who we are. "Happiness comes from really knowing ourselves" (Julie Burchill) and "the happiest girls are the prettiest girls" (Audrey Hepburn). Swings and roundabouts.

I'd be interested to know your thoughts on this. Please comment below or send me a message on twitter (@Voe2). Thank you!

References:

Groskop, V. "Our beauty obsession is boring. Let's celebrate the grotesque." Sunday Observer, 14th August 2011.

Burchill, J. "Fact it, ladies, most of us will never be pretty." Daily Mail, 11th August, 2011.

Pictures:
Danskin dance wear, danskin.com.
Dailymail.co.uk.

Brewers yeast mask.

2011-08-22T12:26:00.001+01:00

I found this mask in my organic body care recipe book and it looked so simple that I decided I would be a fool not to try it.

The book states the following:
"This mask stimulates circulation and delivers a definite rosy glow, making it perfect for the sluggish or clogged complexion".

There is limited information about yeast and its' effect on the skin. However, yeast definitely does produce antioxidants so this is sure to be of benefit.

When I tried this mask I quite liked it. It is one of those masks that dries tightly onto the skin (a bit like a clay mask) but I do enjoy this type of mask. My skin is naturally oily, so I found this mask helped mop up my excess oil. It definitely did make my skin feel tighter and more toned.

I will warn you that the mask does not smell that great. But it is worth enduring!

Ingredients:

1 tea spoon of edible dried yeast.
2 tea spoons of milk.

Method:

Mix together your ingredients until they form a thick paste (you may need more/less milk to reach a texture that you are happy with). Apply a thin layer to your face and neck. The mask will take approximately 15-20 minutes to dry, once it has done so, rinse with cool water. Pat on a good moisturiser afterwards.

1 tea spoon of yeast.

The finished paste, it doesn't look very nice but I found it made a wonderful face mask.

Note: I found that the paste was quite difficult to spread onto my skin (it's a bit like dough.. well, technically it is dough) so I dampened my skin first. This helped me to spread the mixture onto my face.

This recipe will make enough yeast for one application. It does not store, so use immediately.

Source: Tourles, Stephanie. "Organic body care recipes", published by Storey publishing.

Reflection & Update.

2011-08-22T09:38:00.000+01:00

Hi everyone,

Some of you may have picked up on the fact that I have been a bit distant this past week. I had an exam which took up a lot of my time and once it was over I flopped. No matter how hard I tried, I could not get my brain to function properly, let alone write a science based post for my blog. So, I decided to take some time to myself so that I could recuperate. This weekend I went camping and I literally spent the whole of Saturday sitting by the lake, watching the birds & the fish, whilst my boyfriend was fishing. I did not go near my phone or any other piece of technology. In fact, I did not even need to read my book or do any drawing, I was happy to just sit.

Miller Fishing Poster.
Much to my boyfriends' disappointment I did not look like this. I was a slob - no makeup, hoodie, unshowered.

I feel much better now and the well deserved rest has done wonders for me. Already my skin has improved and so has my hair. I feel revived!

I haven't been completely lazy this week though. I have been putting a lot of thought into my blog. The initial success was a lot to keep up with and took me by complete surprise. But now that everything has calmed down a little, I can reflect on it and figure out what direction to go in next.

I have already decided that I want to do a giveaway in the future. I want the giveaway to be special so I decided that I will hold it when I get 1000 followers. That is obviously a long way off and will give me lots of time to start getting together some prizes. Some of the prizes I have in store already include books, beauty products & maybe some of my homemade beauty products too.

I have had some wonderful ideas for up and coming posts. I still need to review a garnier cream (that my Mum has been testing for me), a Vichy cream and a body moisturiser that I adore. Not only that, but I have come up with a mini-series of 7 important beauty tips. I hope to post one a day for a week and I will probably do this in early September. Later on today I am going to work on some DIY recipes, including a soothing eye gel and a couple of face masks. My blog will be back to its' old self in no time!!

Finally, I want to say a huge thank you to each and every one of you. I have met some wonderful people through my blog and twitter. The unconditional kindness & support you have shown me means the absolute world to me. I have wanted to start a blog for some time now, but when I was younger I was horrendously cyber bullied and it put me off the Internet for a long time. Although I have experienced a small amount of hate mail, this has been outweighed substantially by the kindness and I am grateful for that. You have restored my faith in the Internet, often put a smile on my face and although my blog is only 2 months old, you have all made me very happy.

Here's to meeting new bloggers, making new friends and a successful blogging experience for us all!!!!

Symmetrical faces = most beautiful & most "selfish"?

2011-08-21T16:58:00.000+01:00

Last weekend I stumbled across a very interesting article by Jamie Doward & Bradley Wilkinson in the Observer newspaper.

According to a pioneering new study, "people blessed with more symmetrical facial features are less likely to co-operate and more likely to selfishly focus on their own interests" (Observer 2011).

Elizabeth Taylor & Christian Ronaldo both have symmetrical faces.

Spanish scientists, Santiago Sanchez-Pages and Enrique Turigano, carried out a fabulous experiment where participants were given the opportunity to either take on the role of a "dove" and co-operate with one another for the greater good, or play a "hawk" and take a selfish option.

If one person played a "hawk" and their partner played a "dove", then the hawk would gain more in the long run. If both participants chose "doves", they'd each get an equal share of the reward. However, if both chose to play "hawks" then neither of them would gain anything. This is called the "prisoners' dilemma" model of behaviour.

The study found that people with symmetrical faces were less likely to co-operate and were also unlikely to expect other people to co-operate. The findings of this intriguing experiment will be presented during a gathering of Nobel-prize winners in Germany between the 23rd and 27th August this year.

The fact that people with symmetrical faces are deemed as more attractive than those without makes this experiment all the more interesting. It is thought that evolution plays a role in this. Past studies have shown that people with symmetrical faces tend to suffer with less congenital diseases and this is probably one of the reasons they are more attractive (they provide a more suitable option to make babies with). Therefore, they do not need to rely so much on other people, they are pretty self sufficient and it is thought that these characteristics have remained through until modern day.

So, in conclusion, people with symmetrical faces may seem as though they would make perfect dates. But, this study as shown that they may not be ideal life partners!! (Of course, there are many other factors that come into play so take this information lightly).

Reference: The Sunday Observer, "Are beautiful people selfish by nature?" by Doward & Wilkinson. Newspaper: 14/08/2011.

Kate Moss airbrushing blunder.

2011-08-17T10:48:00.000+01:00

Breaking News:

The latest issue of Vogue magazine will feature the recent wedding between Kate Moss and Jamie Hitch. However, it is not the stunning wedding photographs that have kicked up a stir, it is this lovely portrait of Kate Moss and daughter, Lila Grace.

Kate Moss & Lila Grace, Vogue magazine.

The beautiful photograph was taken by fashion photographer, Mario Testino. However, it seems that a rather enthusiastic art director has photoshopped Lilas' hand to the extent that she has been left with some missing fingers! Look carefully at her hand, she has been left with only a thumb and two fingers, whilst the others have been scrubbed out.

Photoshopping models for advertisements and magazine shoots has been in the press a lot lately. Only last month L'oreal had two adverts banned because they were too heavily airbrushed (see my article: "L'oreal adverts banned"). One has to ask, how far will it go before this has to end?

For more up to the minute beauty news, please follow me on Twitter.

References:

1] Ffolkes, B. Kate Moss's daughter airbrushed, yahoo. co. uk [online 2011].

2] Sauers, J. Not even celebrity children are safe from Vogues' airbrushing. Jezebel [online 2011].

3] Sheriden, E. Shes Mrs Rock chick now. Daily mail, 2011.

Milk of Magnesia.

2011-08-12T20:14:00.001+01:00

A couple of weeks ago I received an exciting request from Mandy from the blog, “Pretty Making” and the youtube channel, “Tiny Mandolin”. I really do recommend you have a look at some of Mandys’ makeup looks and advice. She recently did a Harlequin makeup look that is absolutely brilliant! Mandy asked me to look into milk of magnesia because it has been advised by many people as a brilliant matifying base for foundation.

Milk of magnesia is a chemical called magnesium hydroxide that has been suspended in water.

Originally, it was made by a man called Charles Henry Phillips in 1880₁. Nowadays it is commonly known as Phillips Milk of Magnesia and is easily obtainable from most pharmacies.

Milk of Magnesia is alkaline; this means that when it mixes with anything that is acidic, it undergoes a chemical reaction. Chemicals within the milk of magnesia combine with those in the acid, making them less acidic. This is why milk of magnesia is so handy for people with indigestion (excess acid in the stomach)_1.

Milk of magnesia also helps increase motility within the intestine, thus helping to combat constipation. The magnesium attracts water, so it draws water from the intestine walls and this softens the contents of the intestine, thus allowing it to move more smoothly through₁.

There are a lot of articles claiming that milk of magnesia is perfect for treating oily skin and preventing/treating acne. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of scientific research on this use of milk for magnesia, however, it is possible to work out if it is any good or not by using a bit of scientific knowledge on how the skin works.

In my article, “the skin acid-base balance”, I explained that the skin surface is coated in oil which is slightly acidic. The purpose of this oil is to protect the skin, keep it water proof and kill bacteria. I have already explained that milk of magnesia reduces acidity, which is not advisable for the skin. Your skin sits at its’ correct pH quite happily, as with most things, if this balance is disrupted then it can have many negative effects. For example, bacteria may begin to grow and this will cause spots. Most of the articles I have read state that milk of magnesia keeps spots away by reducing the acidity of the skin which is responsible for causing the spots₂. This is not true. Acidity on the skin keeps spots away, so you do not want to change this.

Also, remember that keratin (a structural skin protein) needs an acidic environment in order to stay strong. So, using milk of magnesia and upsetting this acidic environment will damage keratin, which will affect the structure of your skin, letting in bacteria and possibly leading to pre-mature wrinkles!

Milk of magnesia does have a wonderful matifying effect on the skin, but this is because it strips the oil away, which can dry the skin out. Remember, magnesium absorbs water so it will not only remove excess oil but also remove the water from your skin, which is not desirable.

Whereas the matifying effects of milk of magnesia are sought after, they come at a cost. Milk of magnesia disrupts the natural pH balance on the skin, causing unwanted side effects such as acne, boils or infections and will also strip the skin of water, causing it to dry out. It seems it was just a very clever marketing ploy by Mr Phillips. Therefore, I do not recommend you use it on your face too often.

References:

1] Wisegeek .com [accessed online 2011].

2] Samantha. Milk of magnesia for oily skin and blackheads. Skinverse .com [online 2011].

Long-Lasting Lipsticks.

2011-08-11T13:04:00.005+01:00

A true legend of early makeup, Hazel Bishop, was a chemist by day but by night she would spend hours in her kitchen, perfecting recipes for makeup. In 1950 she released the first ever “kiss proof” lipstick₁.

Hazel Bishops’ special lipsticks were full of chemicals called bromo acids, dyes that stain the lips. These lipsticks were a success; however they came with a price. Bromo acids are incredibly drying. Not only that, but most bromo acids are not very pure, which in the modern day cosmetics industry is an important disadvantage₂.

Most companies get around the drying effect of long lasting lipsticks by teaming up the bromo acids with moisturising oils. The balance must be kept just right though, because oils make the lipstick slippery and it can slip right off the lips. This would obviously defeat the object of having a long lasting lipstick.

Nowadays, most long lasting lipsticks contain chemicals called FDCs (fleur du coin) or DCs (du coin)₂. These are dyes that have been found to be much safer than the original bromo acids. The FDC/DC dyes are often mixed with polymers to create a kind of flexible mesh₃. This mesh sticks to the lips and holds the pigment there, helping it to last longer. Not only that, but the polymers repel water making it harder to “wash” the lipstick off₄. Food and water cannot penetrate through the polymers so you should be able to eat and drink without rubbing too much of your lip colour off.

Tip for long lasting lip colour:

Try not to slather it all on at once. Apply one thin layer of lip colour and wait for it to sink in before applying a second coat.

Recommendations for long-lasting lipsticks from readers:

Hayley from the blog, "Poppy Red Lips" : 17 Lasting Fix lipsticks last for hours, especially the Showcase Red one.

Lauren agrees with Hayley that number 17 lipstickes are long lasting. She has a fabulous blog called "Budget Beauty Queen".

"The Mrs" has a great fashion and lifestyle blog and recommends Bobbi Brown. She said that the colours are great (not just for black skin), they're soft and moisturising. She also loves the packaging and branding.

Danielle, owner of the "Tinkerbelldani" beauty blog: Dainty dolly lipsticks have perfect shades for those with pale skin.

Carla from the "Ducking Fabulous" blog: Maybelline 24 hour have amazing staying power and come in a proper pillar-box red!

Danielle (from tinkerbelldani) and Carrie (from not just skin deep beauty) both pointed out that if they want a lip colour that reall does last all day, they prefer to use lip stains such as Sleek Pout.

Thank you to everyone who recommeded lip sticks to me. Please do not forget to check them out on twitter: Carrie (@BlueButterfly3o), Danielle (@tinkabelldani), Hayley (@PoppyRedLips), The Mrs (@themrsthemrs), Carla (@duckingfabulous), Lauren (@budgetbeautyqn).

References:

1] Bennet, J. Hazel Bishop Inc. Cosmetics & skin (2011). Cosmetics and skin .com [online2011].

2] Wilmsmann, H. Replacement of Bromo Acids in Lipsticks by Water-Soluble FDC and Dc colours. Journal of the society of cosmetic chemists (1965). 16, 105-111.

3] Polymers and cosmetics. Indianetzone. Cosmetics .indianetzone .com [online 2011].

4] Targetwomen .com (2006) [accessed online 2011].

Note: This post is in no way a response to Michelle Phan. I have been working on this post over the past week and was not aware that she had also posted something similar.

Beauty Secret: Lactic Acid.

2011-08-09T12:24:00.000+01:00

An exciting new chemical has been hitting the headlines and many of the biggest cosmetics companies have patents for their own version of it. This chemical is alpha-hydroxy acid.

Alpha-hydroxy acids are a class of chemical compounds consisting of a carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms. There is a lot of research on these compounds, most of which shows that they have a positive effect on our skin. They have been shown to help reduce symptoms and improve cosmetic appearance of dry skin₁. They have even been shown to help produce a reversal in the signs of photo aging₂.

In my article, “the skin acid-base balance”, I explained that in order to keep bacteria under control and keratin strong, the skin surface must be kept slightly acidic. Alpha hydroxyl acids are perfect for this. Unlike alkaline solutions (such a milk of magnesia) they do not change the natural pH of the skins surface.

All in all, alpha hydroxy acids are quite brilliant!

But, you do not need to splash out on expensive creams and cosmetics to get hold of these wonderful compounds. Lactic acid, found in milk, is a form of apha hydroxy acid₃!

Lactic Acid chemical structure (crudely drawn by me).

Lemons also contain alpha-hydroxy acids (citric acid) and I have an excellent recipe for a lemon exfoliating face wash in my post, “Lemons are great”! However, for people with sensitive skin, lactic acid may be a gentler option.

Regular milk contains only small amounts of lactic acid, but buttermilk contains much more. Have you heard the stories about Cleopatra bathing in milk? Well, why not try the same. Add a few spoonfuls of buttermilk to your bath and have a nice long soak in it. Don’t forget to exfoliate your skin whilst you’re in there!

Don’t forget that apha-hydroxy acids do make your skin more sensitive to sun light, so douse yourself in sun cream after using them.

Keep your eyes open for alpha-hydroxy acids. They are a true beauty secret that is worth talking about.

Spread the word!

I have almost finished putting together a brilliant post about Milk of Magnesia for skin care. It was a request and I have had so much fun researching it. It is incredibly interesting and I cannot wait to share what I found out with you. Please follow me on twitter to be notified when it’s up!

References:

1] Kempers, S. Katz, I. Wildnauer, R. Green, B. The evaluation of the effect of an alpha hydroxy acid-blend skin cream in the cosmetic improvement of symptoms of moderate to severe xerosis, epidermolytic hyperkeratosis, and ichthyosis (1998) Curtis. 61(6)347-350.

2] Ditre, CM. Et al. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: A pilot clinical, histological, and ultrastructural study (1996) Journal of the American academy of dermatology. 34(2)187-195.

3] Scott, E. Yu, R. Control of keratiinization with alpha-hydroxy acids and realted compounds (1974) Arch Dermatology. 110(4)586-590.

DIY Toner Recipes.

2011-08-08T11:39:00.003+01:00

Following on from my previous post, "Toners", this post will explain how to make your own toner or astringent at home. It is surprisingly easy!

The fresh ingredients should all be availiable from most supermarkets or garden centers. However, I grow them myself. I only have a tiny court yard garden, but I have managed to grow every single one of these ingredients plus a lot more in it. I recommend trying to grow your own cosmetic ingredients, as it is so handy being able to go outside and pick them fresh for use in a facial or cleansing wash!

My courtyard garden - strawberries, peppermint, apple mint, lemon balm, potatos, spinach, spring onions, wild flowers.

My courtyard garden - labelia, lavender, parsley, salad, rosemary.

Note:- in order to purify the water for use in these recipes, I boiled it first. This ensures that any bacteria is killed. I then left it to cool before using to make these toners.

Herbal Astringent.

This astringent is ideal for oily skin, but as it contains alcohol, do not use it on dry skin.

Herbal Astringent - before straining.

Ingredients.

1/2 cup of vodka.
1/2 cup of water (boiled and left to cool).
1 teaspoon of strawberry leaves.
1 teaspoon of lemon balm leaves.
1 teaspoon of rosemary.
1 teaspoon of peppermint leaves.

Method.
Roughly chop all of your fresh ingredients.

Put your chopped ingredients into a jam jar with the vodka and water. Seal the jar tightly.

Keep the jar in the fridge for 2 weeks, shaking it every day. This will allow the essential oils to seep from the plants into the liquid.

After 2 weeks, strain the liquid. Dispose of the plants, but put the liquid back into the jar (or into a bottle) and your toner is ready to use.

Old Fashioned Lavender Toner.

This toner is much more gentle than the previous one so is ok to use on normal or combination skin as well as oily/acne prone skin.

Old Fashioned Lavender Toner.

Ingredients.

1 table spoon of lavender leaves & buds.
1/2 cup of water (boiled, then left to cool).
1/2 cup of witch hazle (availiable from health shops or online).
6 drops of tea tree oil.

Method.
Roughly chop the lavender.

Put the lavender in a jam jar with the water, witch hazle and tea tree oil.

Keep in the fridge for 2 weeks, shaking every day to mix the ingredients. This will allow the essential oils to seep into the liquid.

After 2 weeks, strain the tonic. Keep the liquid and place into a sealed jar/bottle. Use as and when required.

Storage: Store these tonics in the fridge and use when required.

Use: For full instructions on how to use these toners and more information on toners in general, please read my post, "All about: Toners".

Thank you for reading and please don't forget to follow me on Twitter!! http://twitter.com/#!/Voe2

All about: Toners

2011-08-06T09:36:00.000+01:00

The word “toner” can refer to a cosmetic that does a variety of things. Some toners simply moisturise and sooth the skin. Others act as an astringent and tighten the skin and pores. These astringents contain alcohol. Finally, some toners, known as fresheners, act similarly to astringents but contain natural ingredients such as caffeine or green tea₁.

Some people claim that toners rebalance the skin. This is not true. Your skin is amazing at balancing itself out (see my post: The skin Acid-Base balance), so you should not need to use cosmetics to do this.

The astringent properties work by shrinking tissues. They do this by literally causing blood vessels and tissues to contract₂. This prevents excess oil from being released from the skin.

Something I stumbled across whilst researching this article really caught my eye. This is something that I have not seen mentioned when discussing toners before. Research has shown that using astringents on the skin makes it more permeable to certain molecules₃. This is of interest because following a toner with a moisturiser would mean that the moisturiser would be absorbed much better than if a toner had not been used.

Is a skin toner necessary?

Opinions differ on whether a toner is necessary or not. However, from my research I believe that it depends on your skin. If your skin is dry, you do not need a toner. If, like me, your skin is oily then it might be worth trying. Not only that, but I find that toners are brilliant for getting rid of any makeup or dirt you may have missed when you cleaned your face. Toners are not normally expensive, at The Body Shop most of them are less that a fiver (£5), so it’s really down to your individual opinion.

How to apply toner.

Firstly, you will have washed your face with a cleanser of your choice. Dry your face gently using a soft towel.

[Tip:- Wash your face towels regularly because they are a superb breeding ground for bacteria! You don’t want to transfer bacteria onto your face if you can help it].

Take the toner you have chosen to suit your skin. Pour a small amount onto a cotton wool pad and start by carefully wiping it over your t-zone (forehead, nose, chin) because these areas tend to be the oiliest. Next, wipe over your cheeks and other areas of your face with the remainder of the toner left on the cotton pad₁. Try to avoid dry areas. Pat on a good moisturiser.

Examples of toners.

You can easily tell the difference between an astringent and a freshener. Astringents contain alcohol whereas fresheners do not.

An example of an astringent would be Clinique Clarifying Lotion (mild). I chose to use this lotion as an example because I was so impressed with Clinique when I analysed their pore refining serum, that I thought they deserved a shout out. I have not tried this lotion and am not necessaryily recommending it. But it is a good example of an astringent because one of the main ingredients is alcohol.

An example of a freshener is The Body Shop, aloe vera calming toner. This is a product that I actually use on my own skin and I adore it. It does not contain alcohol, so it isn’t an astringent. It is made up of natural ingredients, is relatively cheap and uses fair trade, organic aloe vera. In fact, aloe vera gel is very high up on the list of ingredients. If you want to try a toner for the first time, I recommend giving this one a go.

Make your own toner.

I will post an article containing recipes for quick, easy, cheap, homemade toners soon. Stay tuned! You don’t want to miss it.

Follow me on twitter (http://twitter.com/#!/Voe2) to be notified when it’s up.

Thank you.

References:

1] health.howstuffworks.com [Accessed online 2011].

2] Cohen, J. Skin Care Astringent. Positive articles .com [accessed online 2011].

3] Lux, R. Christian, J. A study of the effect of certain astringents on the permeability of frog skin using radioactive tracer techniques. Journal of the American pharmaceutical association (2006). 40(3)160-162.

The skin Acid-Base balance.

2011-08-05T16:43:00.001+01:00

Your skin is amazing at keeping the right pH balance on its’ surface. pH refers to how acidic/basic your skin is.

A low pH is acidic and a high pH is alkaline. The human skin likes to sit at a pH of between 4.0 and 5.9. The reason it goes down quite low is because as you age, your skin becomes more acidic₁.

The pH scale.

Your skin produces natural oils and these sit on the surface of the skin. The oils consist of two substances, sweat and sebum. These oils contain salt and keep the pH of your skin between 4 and 5.9.

In order to stay strong, keratin (the protein found within skin) needs an environment at the correct pH. If the keratin becomes broken, bacteria can get inside and this can cause spots₂.

When you wash your face, you scrub away this layer of oil. The skin will compensate for this on its own, by producing more oil to replace it. However, sometimes it over compensates. This is why some people advise that you do not wash your face too often. Try using cleaning wipes to clean your face instead.

Toners won’t really help maintain the pH balance of your skin, but they can be very handy for other reasons. I will explain more about toners in my up and coming post, “Toners”, which I will post tomorrow.

References

1] Zlotogorski, A. Distribution of skin surface pH on the forehead and cheeks of adults. Archives of dermatological research (1986). 279(6)398-401.

2] Day, V. pH balance: understanding the science of your skin. Healthyskinportal. Com [accessed online 2011].

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/#!/Voe2

Clinique Pore Refining Solutions Correcting Serum.

2011-08-04T11:48:00.001+01:00

Wow, what a mouthful the title of this product is! Clinique Pore Refining Solutions Correcting Serum is designed to redefine pores, making them appear smaller. This is what the website says₁:-

Click to enlarge.

There are a lot of buzz words; (“helps” and “appearance” for example). However, a tighter, smoother look is guaranteed. The word “look” is important here, but is this just an illusion or is it fact?

Clinique are using silicone cross polymers in a lot of their products lately₂. Silicones are used in beauty products for a number of reasons. They can modify how other ingredients in the product function, enhance lather or create a soft feel to the skin due to enhancing the moisturising properties of other ingredients₃. Very good advantages of silicones are that they absorb oil! When used in skin care products, they are mixed with solvents, such as dimethicone (first on this products’ ingredients list) and this also allows them to trap other ingredients, thus delivering them to the skin₄.

Now, this is the important part. Silicon consists of lots of little tiny balls, coated in silica. The powdery coating can be used to mask pores and wrinkles₄. Considering polysilicone and dimethicone are the two main ingredients (besides water) in this product, this looks very promising. Yes, it is an optical illusion, but most cosmetics are illusions anyway.

This product also contains a lot of anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as extracts from Rosemary and St Pauls Wort (both are plants). The anti-inflammatory ingredients will help to calm the skin, making it less swollen/puffy. This in turn means that the skin isn’t as stretched and the pores are not as exposed.

Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate is another ingredient that acts as an anti-inflammatory, but also acts as an anti-oxidant. It is often used in skin lightening products and is probably used here for its’ UV protection and collagen boosting properties₅.

So, to summarise. Clinique Pore Refining Solutions Correcting Serum contains active ingredients that absorb excess oil, have anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties and are shown to mask the appearance of pores. It will not physically decrease the size of pores, but it will make them look as though they are smaller. It does exactly what it says on the tin ... in theory.

I started out this article feeling very cynical about this product. It costs £36.50 for 30ml which is incredibly expensive. But, I cannot argue with the science. This product has knocked me off my high perch and proved me wrong. I’d be interested to know if any of you have tried it and what you thought. I will definitly be looking into Clinique in a lot more detail in the future, so would appreciate your thoughts.

Full ingredients list:

Click to enlarge.

I will point out that this product contains a lot of alcohol denat, so you may want to take that into consideration if you have sensitive skin.

Are there cheaper alternatives to this product? Probably. I will look into it so stay tuned! If you can think of any, please let me know.

References:

1] www.clinique.co.uk, [online 2011].

2] www.cosmetiscope.com, [online 2011].

3] Rojas Wahl, R. Nicholson, J. Kerschner, J. Silicones in personal care application. Cosmetic Nanotechnology (2007). Published: American Chemical Society, USA.

4] Van Reeth, I. New Silicone Technologies for skin care. ChemEurope.com [online 2011]. China.

5] Draelos, D. Cosmetic Dermatology: Products & Procedures (2010). Blackwell publishing, UK.

I am on twitter, @voe2. I cannot wait to hear from you.

Haemorrhoid cream for eyebags?

2011-08-02T11:01:00.000+01:00

There is a lot of advice out there stating that haemorrhoid cream could be used to treat eye bags. So, is this a good idea?

The short answer:

NO!!

The long answer:

Directly beneath your eye, there is an area of fat. It is there to protect your eye from damage (it acts like a cushion) and to support the eye ball. As we age, the skin beneath the eye becomes weaker and begins to “sag”, it is no longer able to support the fatty cushion and so the fat protrudes, causing puffyness₁. This creates a shadow and cannot be treated with creams. Unfortunately, it’s just another annoying symptom of getting older.

Water retention also causes under eye puffiness (preorbital oedema). This is caused because water is unable to drain away from your eyes whilst laying in the horizontal position and explains why under eye puffiness tends to be more prominent after waking. Other factors such as the menstrual cycle, diet (excess salt), pregnancy and dermatitis (where the eyes become sensitive and inflamed) also come into play₂.

Fatigue is thought to come into play because it apparently makes the skin under the eyes paler. This means that the blood is more visible, causing darkness. However, I could not find scientific evidence of this, so it is purely speculation.

Haemorrhoid cream contains hydro-cortisone and ephedrine₃.

Hydro-cortisone is a steroid. It works by reducing inflammation, but it has a major side effect – dry skin! This is not a desired effect for the under eye area, because the skin here is very thin so skin irritation could cause a lot of problems. If you ever read instructions for hydro-cortisone you will see that they almost always read “avoid using around the eye area”. The warning is there for a reason, abide by it.

Ephedrine is a drug that constricts (makes smaller) blood vessels. Firstly, eye bags are not caused by the blood vessels being too big (as some people have said). Secondly, considering eye bags are caused by excess water, it is a foolish idea to use this drug to get rid of them. Please allow me to explain.

Normal sized (ie. Not constricted) blood vessels means that water flows though easily and therefore remains inside the vessel.

Narrow (constricted) blood vessels mean that water has not got enough room to flow through the vessel. Therefore, it is pushed out of the vessel into surrounding tissues. It sits in the surrounding tissues, causing swelling – EYE BAGS!

Here is a very basic diagram I drew to further explain:-

Crudely drawn diagram by me! Shows why constricting blood vessels will not reduce the water retention that leads to eye bags.

So, in conclusion, do not put haemorrhoid cream on your face!!!

Instead, try drinking lots of water (but not just before bed time); reduce salt in your diet; accept that around your period, you may suffer from worse eye bags than usual and look into using makeup tips to help disguise them. Gossmakeupartist from You Tube has some good tips!

Finally, I leave you with this fabulous quote from Dr Seckle₁.

“Expecting eye creams to remove eye bags or puffy eyes is like putting an aspirin on top of your head to cure a headache!”

References:

1] Seckle, Dr B. What causes puffyness of the eyes and eye bags. Drseckle.com 2007 [online 2011].

2] Freitag et al. What causes dark circles under the eyes? Journal of cosmetic dermatology (2007). 6 (3) 211-215.

3] Does hemorrhoid cream work? Hemorrhoidcreamx.com [online 2011].

Charity: Helen Bamber Foundation.

2011-08-01T09:28:00.001+01:00

It's not only Monday morning, but also the 1st August, so I wanted to inject some positivity into this month by starting it with a charity post! I hope you do not mind, but I wanted to take the time to write a short piece about a charity that I support and tell you a bit about what they do.

I have been a huge supporter of the Helen Bamber Foundation for some time now. They are a UK based charity and work with victims of human rights violations, such as torture, rape and sex trafficking. They work with victims closely, using counselling and rehabilitation therapies to aid them through recovery.

You may be aware that with recent economic cuts by the new coalition government, many charities are suffering. Recently, The Poppy Project (a charity whom provided victims of sex trafficking with sheltered accommodation) was closed. It is a sad fact that charities are struggling in the economic down turn and so they need as much help as we can give them.

Giving to charity is a wonderful thing. I believe in karma and so try to surround myself with as much good karma as I can. I find that giving to charity is extremely therapeutic. So, I urge everyone to take a few moments out of their day today and donate a small amount to the charity of their choice. If money is tight, why not blog about your favourite charity and spread the word? Don't forget, that charities often rely on people like us to publicise them as much as they rely on us for donations! Times are hard at the moment, so it is important to do things that make not only ourselves feel good, but other people too!

Next year I am embarking on a trek through the Indian Himalayas in order to raise money for The Helen Bamber Foundation. It will be a huge personal challenge for me, but I am excited to do as much as I can to raise money for them. Have any of you done anything similar? I welcome any advice that I can get!

I have a justgiving page, but I won't post it here. However, if anyone is interested, please email me on voebeauty(@)gmail.com and I will send you the link.

For more information about The Helen Bamber Foundation, please visit http://helenbamber.org.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post.

Cosmetics Adverts - Misleading?

2011-07-29T13:50:00.001+01:00

Following the banning of foundation adverts by Lancome and Maybelline (both owned by L’oreal) in the UK, a huge debate has ensued (see this article for details). Is airbrushing in cosmetics advertisements going too far?

This is not a new debate. In 2009 an Olay magazine advert, featuring a heavily airbrushed Twiggy, was banned following over 700 complaints₁.

Olay Definity Advert, featuring Twiggy

Twiggy, unedited.

In November 2010, Rimmel received a warning from the Advertisements Standards Agency (ASA), after they featured a magazine advert for a mascara that they claimed lengthens lashes. The advert shows three snap shots of Georgia May Jagger, showing her lashes getting progressively longer. Despite the small print on the advert reading “shot with lash inserts”, the ASA felt that the advert was misleading₂.

Rimmel Mascara Advert

There is no denying that these advertisements were set out to be deliberately misleading and this goes against the ASA rules. But part of Rimmels’ defence is that all mascara advertisements use lash inserts. Heavily edited beauty adverts have become the norm. The L’oreal Elvive adverts make no attempt to hide the fact that Cheryl Cole is not only heavily airbrushed, but also wearing hair extensions, in their shampoo adverts.

L'oreal Elvive Advert, featuring Cheryl Cole

Cheryl Cole, unedited

I have seen the argument, "but everyone does it" used a lot by cosmetics companies however I do not think this justifies it. It reminds me of the sort of comment that a naughty child would come out with to justify their bad behaviour.

Practically every image in most cosmetics adverts is a visual lie, carefully constructed to lead you to the conclusion that you must have that product. With airbrushing all around us, is it ok that it has become acceptable? Is artificial beauty really that much more important than natural beauty?

It has become increasingly apparent that in the strive for perfection, people are going to ever increasing lengths. I am 25 years old, yet I know of a large number of women my age who have already had botox or who are considering it. It is becoming rare to see a teenage girl without hair extensions or circle lenses. But is this a direct result of women striving to look like the photoshopped images of perfection that surround us today? Is it purely a fashion phase and therefore does it really matter?

These are questions that are hard to answer. But I will point out that there is a lot of research linking heavily edited advertisements with depression and anxiety in women₃.

I remember walking into the kitchen where my flatmate was crying. When I asked her what was wrong, she thrust a magazine photo of Amy Childs, from “The Only Way is Essex” and one of FHMs’ top 100 sexiest women, at me claiming that she will never look as pretty as her! The magazine photo looked something like this:

Amy Childs, airbrushed photo from a magazine.

But, we all know that Amy Childs really looks like this:

Amy Childs, unedited

We all know that photoshop can do wonders and it is understandable that cosmetics companies would want to use it to make their products seem better than they are, thus increasing sales. But whereas photoshopping women in dirty lads mags and music videos seems acceptable, when it occurs in advertisements is it a form of false advertising?

False advertising is illegal in both the UK and the USA.

“Every consumer has the legal right to receive truthful information about any products or services they wish to purchase without being deceived or misled by advertisers. Under federal and state laws, making false, misleading, and/or deceptive claims about the quality, nature, price, or purpose of any products or services is illegal.” – Consumer Fraud Lawyer₄.

However, most cosmetics advertisements get around this fact by using small print! Something is only considered false advertising if something is “untrue as a result of the failure to disclose a material fact₅”. Therefore, cosmetics companies can pretty much get away with anything in their advertisments.

Britney Murphey, before and after airbrushing.

Earlier this year, Makeup Forever launched their first ever unretouched makeup campaign for their HD Foundation*. It is obvious that the women featured in these adverts have naturally flawless, blemish-free skin. However, you can still see their "lumps and bumps" and shiny forheads (Marie Claire)! Despite these "inperfections" being evident, they still look stunning but most importantly, they look real! The foundation seems to work and this is why I personally think that this campaign has been and will continue to be a success. It is what it is and I am sure consumers will appreciate the honesty behind this campaign.

Makeup forever, Unretouched advert.

I leave you with Cindy Crawfords' famous quote: "Even I do not look like Cindy Crawford in the morning!"

References:

1] The Guardian Newspaper.

2] Lovelyish Magazine, November 2007, [online] beauty.lovelyish.com

3] Dittma, H. Howard, S. Professional Hazards? The impact of models’ body size on advertising effectiveness and womens’ body-focused anxiety in professions that do and do not emphasize with the cultural ideal of thinness. British Journal of Psychology, 2004. 43 (4) 477-497.

4] Consumer Fraud Lawyer, USA, Flood Law Group. [online 2011] http://aconsumerfraudlawyer.com

5] Legal dictionary, [online 2011] http://legal-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com

6] Marie Clair, March 2011. [online] marieclaire.co.uk

Note: Opinions contained within this article are my own.

* I will point out that I have seen the pictures floating around on the interent of this girl (makeup forever advert) that apparently prove she has been airbrushed. However, from looking at these "other" photos, her skin still looks flawless to me and it looks as though these other photos have been darkened, as opposed to the original advert being edited. If you have any contradictory thoughts on this, please comment below.

Please don't forget to follow me on Twitter, @Voe2. My account is brand new!

Thank you!

I am now on twitter.

2011-07-28T14:55:00.000+01:00

After a lot of nagging from some of the followers of my blog, I have finally conformed to modern day societies' social norm and signed up to twitter!

My twitter name is: @Voe2.

Please follow me!

Thank you.

L'oreal adverts banned!

2011-07-27T08:37:00.002+01:00

Breaking News:-

Two magazine adverts by the cosmetics firm, L’oreal, have been banned. It seems that they are so heavily airbrushed that they are considered misleading!

Lancome Teint Miracle foundation advert.

L’oreal have been forced to pull their adverts containing actress Julia Roberts and super model Christy Turlington after the advertising watchdog responded to complaints by the Liberal MP, Jo Swinson.

L’oreal owned brands Lancome and Maybelline breached the advertising standards code for exaggeration and being misleading. The Lancome foundation, Teint Miracle, claims to “create natural light that emanates from beautiful skin”, whilst the Maybelline foundation, The Eraser, is an anti-aging foundation.

L’oreal admitted that the adverts had been airbrushed to remove “makeup, reduce dark circles, smooth lips and darken eyebrows”. But they claimed that there were still signs of anti-aging such as crows feet around the eyes! True, but I have pretty good eye sight and I need a magnifying glass to see them!!

Maybelline The Eraser foundation advert.

L’oreal refused to show the advertising standards agency pre-airbrushed photos from the adverts, instead showing them photos of the two women from a red carpet event. Jo Swinson said it was “shocking” that the company would not show them original photos from the advertising shoot.

“Flawless skin and super model bodies are everywhere,” said Swinson, “but they do not reflect reality. Christy Turlington and Julia Roberts are naturally beautiful women who do not need airbrishing to look good. This ban sends a powerful message to advertisers – let’s get back to reality!”

Nicky Hambleton-Jones, a fashion stylist, said on the BBC this morning: "We all know it's not going to create miracles, but we all need something to aspire to. It's just a bit of fun!"

Earlier this year, Makeup Forever issued their first ever unairbrushed makeup advert so it looks as though this topic will be around for a while!

What do you think? Are heavily edited cosmetics adverts misleading?

** Follow up post to come! **

References:-
1] The Gaurduan Newspaper, Mark Sweeny, 2011.
2] The BBC News.

Silk undies and sheets are good for you!

2011-07-26T12:17:00.000+01:00

“What do I wear in bed? Why, Chanel no.5, of course.” – Marilyn Monroe.

Besides her Chanel No. 5, Marilyn swore by sleeping in silk sheets. An article in the daily telegraph explains that silk is thought to provide amazing health benefits, including helping to combat the menopause, pre-mature aging and even thrush₁!

A clinical study by the University of Bologna in Italy has shown that wearing silk underwear decreased the itching and soreness associated with thrush. Thrush is a fungal infection that affects most women at some point during their lives. It is easily treated, but can be embarrassing and uncomfortable. I must point out that this study involved a new type of underwear, invented by an Italian firm, so it is possible that it was commissioned by them and the statistics may not be reliable. Not only that, but the new type of underwear was infused with an anti-fungal which probably explains why it was so successful. However, according to the daily telegraph, evidence dating back 20 years supports the beneficial effect of silk in many other ways too₁.

Sericin is a protein found in silk and research has shown that it adheres to keratin (a protein found within the skin). This forms a protective, moisture retaining barrier on the skins’ surface, which could help keep it plump and youthful looking. Not only this, but I have found quite a few research papers stating that sericin can protect against oxidative stress and inflammation₂.

A very interesting research paper found that sericin increased the number of skin fibroblasts (cells that make collagen) and aided their attachment by 250%₃. This basically means that it helped them fuse to the surface more easily. An increased amount of fibroblasts means that more collagen will be produced!

As for helping with menopause, the evidence is purely circumstantial. But, it exists and the theory makes a lot of sense. It is thought that silk adapts to the atmospheric temperature more easily than other fabrics and it has been suggested that this helps relieve symptoms of hot flushing and facial redness₁.

Perhaps the most exciting research looks at the silk worm that produces silk. The silk worm feeds on mulberry leaves, which contain powerful anti-oxidants. Since silk is produced in the salivary glands of the silk worm, it makes perfect sense that these anti-oxidants would be found within silk itself₁. This research is still ongoing, but is exciting nontheless!

It seems Marilyn Monroe knew what she was talking about!

References:

1] The Daily Telegraph, Tuesday 26^th July 2011. “Wearing silk helps ease an age-old problem” by Victoria Lambert.

2] Zhaorigetu, S. Et al. Silk protein, sericin, suppresses DMBA-TPA-induced mouse skin tumourigenisis by reducing oxidative stress, inflammatory responses and endogenous tumour promoter TNF-alpha. Oncology Reports, 2003. 10 (3) 537-543.

3] Tsubouchi, K. Et al. Sericin enhances attachment of cultured human skin fibroblasts. Bioscience, Biotechnology & Biochemistry, 2005. 69 (2) 403-405.

Anti-dandruff Shampoos.

2011-07-25T12:23:00.000+01:00

Out of the blue, I started to suffer from dandruff. Dandruff is not usually a problem for me, but for some reason I developed it almost overnight and realised that I needed to start using a decent anti-dandruff shampoo.

I went to my local Sainsburys with the intention of buying Head & Shoulders anti-dandruff shampoo, but when I got there I saw that they were giving away free tickets to the London 2012 Olympics.

After signing up for the London 2012 notifications long before tickets became available, I applied for tickets extremely early and only applied for 2 events (I felt it would be selfish of me to apply for thousands of pounds worth of tickets). I was incredibly disappointed to find that I had not been lucky and would not be receiving the tickets I applied for. It was soon announced that there would be a second chance to apply for tickets in a few weeks. When the second chance came around, I set my alarm and was up at 6am to try and get tickets, but the only ones left were too expensive and there was no way I would be able to afford them. Living in London, my taxes go towards paying for the Olympics. The lane closures will directly affect my local area, increasing traffic substantially. But, despite applying early, doing everything by the book and acting in an unselfish way, I cannot go.... because I am not well off. Since then, I have found out that 25% of tickets are going towards corporate companies sponsoring the games₁! Out of principle, I did not buy Head & Shoulders because I disagree with the corporate, sniffy way that these companies have put themselves in the front running for tickets. Instead I opted for Sainsburys own brand anti-dandruff shampoo.

What a result! Sainsburys anti-dandruff shampoo cost me 76p for 300ml (~25p per 100ml); whilst Head & Shoulders shampoo costs £4.50 for 500ml (~90p per 100ml). That is a huge difference in price. However, the ingredients are almost identical!!

Both shampoos contain Pyrithione Zinc as their active ingredient. Both shampoos contain almost identical inactive ingredients, in almost exactly the same order on the labels (ingredients are listed in order of amounts, ie. The first ingredient on a label will be the one that the product contains the most of).

Head & Shoulders ingredients (up to active ingredient):-

Aqua, Soldium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Dimethicone, Cocamide MEA, Zinc carbonate, Glycol distearate, Zinc Pyrithione.

Sainsburys anti-dandruff shampoo ingredients (up to active ingredient):-

Aqua, Soldium Laureth Sulfate, Glycerol sterate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamide MEA, Zinc Pyrithione.

Sainsburys Anti-dandruff shampoo, ingredients.

I have been using Sanisburys Anti-dandruff shampoo for a little over the week. It has worked wonders, my dandruff has completely disappeared. It just goes to show, that sometimes you really are only paying extra for a brand name.

More about Zinc Pyrithione (the active ingredient in most anti-dandruff shampoos).

Zinc pyrithione is a powerful anti-fungal compound. It is made up of zinc, oxygen and sulphur; all bonded together to form a colourless, crystallised substance. It kills the yeast responsible for causing dandruff₂.

More about dandruff.

Note: dandruff is different to “dry skin”. Treat dry skin with a moisturising shampoo, if this does not work then you probably do have dandruff.

What causes dandruff.

Pityrosporum is a fungus that causes an inflammatory response on the surface of the skin. This causes skin to flake away. Nowadays, it is known as Malassezia yeast.

Treating dandruff.

To treat dandruff, you simply have to kill of the yeast/fungal infection. Most anti-dandruff shampoos consist of ingredients that will do this. However, if dandruff persists, you may need to visit your doctor so that they can prescribe you something stronger.

Make your own organic, vegan anti-dandruff hair oil.

If you want something that may help clear up dandruff but is organic and not tested on animals, try this excellent hair oil from James Wong (Grow your own drugs).

Ingredients:

6 table spoons Rosemary leaves (fresh).

3 table spoons tyme leaves (fresh).

3 table spoons lavender leaves (fresh).

250ml coconut oil.

20 drops peppermint essential oil.

Methods:

Wash and chop all of the leaves and place them into a heat proof bowl.

Pour the oil over the leaves and cover the bowl.

Place the bowl over a pan of boiling water (bain marie).

Heat on a low heat for 1 hour. This extracts all of the active ingredients from the leaves.

Set to one side to cool, then stir in the essential oil.

Use:

Pop 3 table spoons of the oil onto your hair and massage into your scalp. Wrap your hair in a warm towel and leave for 30 minutes. Finally wash your hair thoroughly to remove all of the oil.

Storage:

Keeps for 1 year in a cool, dark place.

References.

1] Jacquelin Magnay, The daily telegraph. February 2011.

2] Van Cutsem, J et al. The in vitro antifungal activity of ketaconzole, zinc pyrithione and selium pityrosporum and their efficiency as a shampoo in the treatment of experimental pityrosporosis in guinea pigs. American Academy of dermatology, 1990. 6 (1) 993-998.

Know your breasts.

2011-07-22T15:39:00.000+01:00

You do not need me to tell you how important it is to examine your breasts regularly for lumps and imperfections. Being a biomedical scientist I know how important it is, however even I forget. In fact, I cannot remember the last time I did it and we should all be doing it once a month!

I suddenly had a brain wave a few days ago and came up with this little recipe for a “breast salve”! When carrying out a self breast examination, you can use any shower gel or cream to make it more comfortable. But, it is so easy to forget. So, this breast salve not only makes the examination more comfortable and moisturising, but it also serves as a little reminder too. Just pop it onto your bathroom shelf (or wherever you keep your moisturisers) and you will be reminded every time you see it!

A simple google search will bring up plenty of helpful guides on how to examine your breasts, so I won’t go into it here. However, a website I particularly like is breasttalk.co.uk.

"Know Your Breasts": Breast Salve:-

Ingredients:

1 teaspoon of bees wax (available online).

300ml of olive oil.

5 drops of lavender essential oil.

Method:

Heat the olive oil gently in a sauce pan, over a low heat. When small bubble begin to appear, remove it from the heat and add the bees wax. Stir until the wax has completely melted, then add the essential oil. Mix the solution before pouring it into a jar. Leave to one side until it sets.

This “breast salve” will keep for approximately 1 year.

Note, it is a good idea to sterilise the jar before use by submerging it into boiling water for a couple of minutes. This will help prevent bacteria from getting into your salve.

DIY "Jurlique Daily Exfoliator" dupe.

2011-07-20T08:49:00.000+01:00

The very beautiful Chococcuro from “Closet Voyage” mentioned that she bought a daily exfoliator from Jurlique. At 30 Australian dollars (approximately £20 GDP) this exfoliator is certainly not cheap and Chococcuro was wondering if it is possible to make a DIY dupe of this product.

Without the actual product here (I wasn’t keen on spending £20 on a product I probably would not use) I can only go by the ingredients list. The active ingredients were incredibly interesting and every single one of them made a lot of sense. However, when I looked at the ingredients list in a lot more detail I noticed that there were a lot of extra ingredients in the product that probably were not required.

With some experimenting and research, I managed to come up with my own recipe for a purer version of this exfoliating cream.

Ingredients:

4 tsp oats.

2 tsp oil (almond/lard/olive/whatever you want).

2 tsp bees wax.

6 tsp emulsifying wax.

2 tsp honey.

2 tsp vit C powder.

1 handful of almonds.

1 tea bag of green tea.

12 drops cammomile oil.

Method:

First, roughly chop the almonds as finely as you can. Put them to one side.

Put 2 teaspoons of the dried oats into a saucepan of 300ml fresh boiled water.

Boil for 10 minutess until thick and gloopy.

Take 2 teaspoons of oil, put in seperate pan. Add 2 teaspoons of bees wax & 6 teaspoons of emulsifying wax. Heat until the wax has melted.

Sieve the oat water to remove the lumps. Take the oat water and add to the oil, slowly, whisking the whole time. Ensure both are warm whilst you do this.

Add 2 teaspoons of honey, the 12 drops of cammomile oil and the vitamin c powder. Stir the cream.

Finally, add the chopped almonds, remaining porridge oats and the contents of the tea bag. Stir in these extras.

Place your cream into a jar (an old jam jar is fine). You can store it in the fridge for 1 month.

Parabens - an introduction.

2011-07-18T15:16:00.000+01:00

Parabens have been hitting the headlines for years and they are a huge topic to research and write about; but I will try my best here.

What are Parabens?

Parabens are a class of chemicals that are used as preservatives within cosmetics. There are several different types including butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Heptylparaben, isobutylparaben, propylparaben.

Crudely drawn diagram of the basic structure of a paraben.

Why are they considered harmful?

In 1994 a huge study was done on parabens and they were thought to be oestrogenic. This means that it is thought that when taken into the body, they are converted to oestrogen. Oestrogen is a female hormone associated with pregnancy and the menstrual cycle. This is considered a bad thing because some research over the years has shown that high oestrogen levels could lead to infertility. Not only that, but high levels of oestrogen is known to contribute to the risk of contracting breast cancer.

What does the research say?

A huge media storm pushed parabens into the headlines and ever since they have ceased to go away. Despite the health scare, parabens are still used in a wide array of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.

However, research suggests that a great deal of this fear is unwarranted. An important study by Soni et al. In 2005 found the following:

“Parabens are relatively non-toxic. They are quickly absorbed (taken in), metabolised (used) and excreted (removed) by the bodies of healthy individuals. Genotoxicity testing (testing for negative effects on our genes) was found to be primarily negative. The paraben structure is not carcinogenic (cancerous) and tests confirm this. Some animal studies have shown adverse reproductive effects.”

The research quickly suggests that parabens are not directly cancerous. However, there are “weak positive” results when infertility is examined. This is probably due to the fact that parabens can be converted into “oestrogen like” substances.

Parabens and Fertility.

There are a lot of chemicals in the environment that can easily be converted into oestrogen. For example, some chemicals in plastics seep into bottled water and are ingested before being converted into oestrogen. Many of us take the contraceptive pill, the main constituent of which is oestrogen. Oestrogen and its’ effect on fertility is still being investigated. In fact, I am due to start a research project soon, the title of which will be: “Oestrogen and the environment: effect on fertility”. I will keep you up to date with my findings! Until I have this project under way I am hard pressed to jump to any conclusions regarding this topic. It is one that is still under going furious debate.

Are cosmetics containing parabens safe?

In 2004 the European Union commissioned a new study looking at parabens. It explored some of the findings from the 1994 study that I mentioned earlier and could not find a definite link between parabens and oestrogen, although there are conflicting results for this. As for breast cancer, high levels of parabens can have an effect. This probed the European Union to come up with a safe level of parabens when used in cosmetics of 0.4%. Below this level, parabens are thought to be safe and this is the maximum levels found in products in the EU.

The FDA (US food and drug administration) does not allow paraben levels above 0.3% in cosmetics.

All in all, parabens are broken down very quickly by the human body and levels within cosmetics are low enough that they should not cause any adverse effects. However, if you are concerned about parabens then there are plenty of products out there which do not contain them. A simple google search should help you to locate them.

Refernces:

Soni, M. Carabin, I. Burdock. G. (2005). Safety assessment of esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens). Food and Chemical toxicology. 43 (7) 985-1015.

European Comission, Scientific committee on consumer products. Extended opinion on the safety evaluation of parabens. 2005.

US department ofhealth and human services, FDA. Selected cosmetics ingredients: parabens. 2007.

Honey, Natures' Secret.

2011-07-16T12:02:00.000+01:00

The anti-bacterial properties of honey have been well known for centuries. The ancient Egyptians used honey in the mummification process because it stops bacteria from decomposing the body. Of course, at the time they did not know about honeys’ anti-bacterial properties; they just knew that it worked. In the later part of last century we began to discover microorganisms and thus could start exploring why honey is so effective.

Honey is full of sugar. The sugar in honey reacts with water, causing less of it to be available for bacteria to use. Not only that, but honey is quite acidic and this makes it impossible for most bacteria to survive. But, most importantly honey contains hydrogen peroxide!

When honey is being made, the bees excrete a small amount of a type of enzyme that oxidises glucose. This causes a reaction within the honey whereby glucose is oxidised to produce gluconic acid. The gluconic acid acts as a preservative and prolongs the life of the honey. However, the reaction also causes some hydrogen peroxide to be produced and bacteria cannot survive when hydrogen peroxide is present. Think of it as a “slow release” antiseptic.

Research shows that honey is relatively ineffective as an anti-septic when ingested because it is diluted in the intestine. However, it has been used to make anti-septic dressings in the past and recent research has shown that it is quite effective when used in this way. It has also been shown to be very effective in keeping skin grafts clean and preventing them from becoming infected.

The thought of honey containing hydrogen peroxide may be quite shocking. However it is such a small amount that it is relatively harmless. It is the simplest peroxide and so is easily broken down by the body into hydrogen and water. A lot of shop bought acne treatments contain benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide is made by combining hydrogen peroxide with benzoyl chloride. This means that it is a more complex form of hydrogen peroxide and therefore harder for the body to break down into harmless chemicals.

Acne treatments are not cheap. But when you look at the ingredients you will see that they literally consist of benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid (aspirin). So it is incredibly easy to make your own acne treatment at home. See my post, “Aspirin in the treatment of acne” for a DIY recipe. Honey is probably a safer bet than buying an acne treatment because it contains a more simple peroxide. So, by mixing it with aspirin you have a fantastic, cheap alternative.

References:-

1] Waikato Research Unit, Honey as an Antimicrobal Agent.

2] Postmes, T. Van Den Boggaard, AE. Hazen, M. Honey forwounds, ulcers and skin grafts (1993). Lancet. 341 (8847) 256-257.

Easy DIY Body Scrub.

2011-07-15T10:21:00.001+01:00

Body scrubs are essentially just oil and salt. They are perfect for scrubbing off dead skin cells from the surface, leaving behind new cells. Although they are extremely effective, try not to use them every single day as your skin needs time to repair itself between uses. I would recommend using a scrub twice a week and/or on special occassions. Body scrubs can sometimes be quite expensive but they are so easy and cheap to make, so here is a quick recipe that I particularly like to use on myself.

Ingredients:

[Makes 1 portion]

50ml Olive Oil.
3 table spoons Rock Salt.
2 table spoons Porridge Oats.
1 table spoon Poppy Seeds.
1 table spoon Finely Chopped Almonds (optional).

Method:

Simply mix all of the ingredients together to form a thick paste. The scrub is ready to use immediately.

If you wish, scale up the ingredients to make a batch of scrub and store in an air tight container. Pour a few spoonfuls of oil on the top of your mixture to seal in all that goodness before popping the lid on. Your homemade scrub will keep for 6 months.

Hemp Oil for skin care.

2011-07-13T09:05:00.005+01:00

With all of the miracle skin creams out there at the moment, hemp oil has remained relatively untouched (or so it seems, I will explain more at the end). But, this is good news because it gives us all an opportunity to take advantage of this little known beauty secret!

Most moisturisers merely “coat” the skin with a luxurious, soft layer. However, hemp oil is able to penetrate deep into your skin. You may remember that in a previous post I explained how the skin is the best waterproof barrier known to man! The whole point of the skin is to keep things out; this includes moisturisers and is why most anti-aging creams are a waste of time and money – their ingredients do not get absorbed into the skin. However, the chemical structure of hemp oil is very similar to that of our own skin. Therefore, it is able to penetrate much more than other ingredients.

Hemp consists of several fatty acids (lipids) which are the ingredients often found in anti-aging products such as the incredibly expensive Lancome Genifique Nutrics! These lipids, linoleic acid and alpha-linoleic acid, are found in the skin. Although they are found in most plant oils, they are particularly high in hemp. Not only that, but hemp does not require the same number of pesticides whilst being grown as it is very hardy₁. This is great news for those of you who hate nasty chemicals in your skin care products!

I told you earlier that skin is designed to keep things out. But it is also designed to keep things in! This includes water. One of the major secrets that the cosmetics companies have harnessed is that healthy, young skin is able to keep water inside. It does this by forming a barrier of dead skin cells on the surface, these are held together with lipids (fatty acids) a bit like brick and mortar in a wall. A powerful substance used for this purpose is ceramid. Ring a bell? You can read more about this in my post about Lancome Genfique Nutrics. Ceramid contains linoleic acid, which hemp oil has in abundance!!

You may be wondering why the cosmetics industries do not make more use of this amazing product. The answer is that they do. They cannot patent a plant, so they just extract the lipids and ceramids, giving them a jazzy new name that they can patent and then charge you ridiculous amounts of money for it! Stay one step ahead of them and get hold of some hemp oil!

EDIT:-

You can find some good quality hemp products at The Body Shop, or at independant soap makers so keep your eyes open for them.

http://www.thebodyshop.co.uk/

Refernces:

1] Leson, G. Pless, P. Hemp oil in body care products (1998). Leson Environmental Consulting.

Make your own "Body Shop olive exfoliating scrub" dupe.

2011-07-12T13:10:00.002+01:00

The Body Shop are well known for their body scrubs. They cost around £12-50. However, I have a fantastic recipe to make your own dupe of their olive body scrub that will cost next to nothing!

Ingredients:

[Makes 1 portion]

350g Green Olives (pips removed).
2 table spoons Olive Oil.
50g Porridge Oats.
2 table spoons Poppy Seeds.
2 table spoons Rock Salt.

Method:

Blend the green olives into a thick paste. Stir in the olive oil, oats, poppy seeds and rock salt. You may add a few drops of essential essence to make it smell nice, but this is optional. Your scrub is now ready.

There is no reason why you can not increase the quantities of ingredients in order to make more scrub, then pop it into an air tight container. It will keep for about 2 months in the fridge.